Year of publication 1960 - Fell and Rock Climbing Club

G. Oliver 35The second pitch, which was quite short—about 25 feet—consisted of a narrow crack behind a flake. The wall on itsright had some small footholds, but I decided that a laybackwas again the answer to the problem. It was steep, but theedge of the flake was good and, after a short but strenuousstruggle, I reached a small ledge above the flake crack. Thiswas supposedly the belay, but as the only position I couldassume on it was a gargoyle-like squat, I put on a threadrunner instead and prepared to continue up the crux pitch,making a total lead-out of 150 feet.Above the ledge the route went straight up a shallow verticalgroove which looked very fierce. Holds were few and farbetween, and it was only by bridging with feet wide apart thatI could maintain a balanced position and move upwards.After 30 feet I began to realize that this pitch, so far as I wasconcerned, was irreversible, but having committed myself Ihad to carry on. Just as the strength in my fingers began toebb, a small spike came into view above me; I thankfullylooped a sling over it and rested while I reassured Eric whowas beginning to give me worried glances from below. Hisapprehension was apparently due to his having forgotten tobring his thick gloves.A respite in the form of several feet of easier climbingfollowed, then the groove faded into vertical rock. At thispoint I found a piton solidly inserted in a crack, a sure signthat the section above was difficult. After climbing past thepiton holds diminished until I found myself crucified againstthe rock on very small holds, the problem being to step upand to the left onto a little shelf. After a few attempts in thatdirection I discovered a reasonable sidehold and was able topull myself onto the shelf. From here a corner of about 15 feetprovided a last obstacle. Then the main difficulties were overand I was able to relax on a broad grass ledge. Eric followedme up this pitch in grand style, but we both agreed that it wasthe most harrowing piece of rock we had so far encounteredduring our holiday. The rest of the route was exposed butendowed with good incut holds for which we were dulythankful. After this climb, the thought of another simply didnot arise; a cold wind had sprung up and we at once retired tothe valley.