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Year of publication 1960 - Fell and Rock Climbing Club

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52 CLIMBS OLD AND NEW(4) 20 feet. Up left to a better belay.(5) 65 feet. Move left round the rib <strong>and</strong> climb the shallow grooveslanting right to a small ledge. Move left then trend rightup the wall above to an oak tree <strong>and</strong> a flake belay.(6) 80 feet. Up to the square ledge on the right, then traverse leftto a holly tree at the foot <strong>of</strong> a heather groove which is climbeduntil slabs lead to the top.RAVEN CRAG, COMBE GHYLLPENDULUM 355 feet. Very severe. First ascent 16thAugust, 1959. F. Crosby, D. A. Elliott.Starts just above Solfidian's Route <strong>and</strong> follows the gangway runningup the great overhanging wall to the left <strong>of</strong> Raven Crag Buttress.(1) 50 feet. Climb the centre gangway to a bilberry patch. Asmall mantelshelf in the first 15 feet is the main difficulty.(2) 65 feet. Continue until this gangway peters out. Move rightinto an alcove at the foot <strong>of</strong> the gangway proper.(3) 105 feet. The gangway, now a more serious proposition.Easiest climbing on its outside edge—move cautiously overprecariously perched blocks <strong>and</strong> continue to where thegangway merges into the overhanging wall. Very poorstance with small knob or piton for belay.(4) 55 feet. Piton pitch. Straddle across the gully to below avertical corner. Ascend for 20 feet, then move left to avoidthe largest overhang <strong>and</strong> finish over the smaller one toreach a stance <strong>and</strong> belay in a grassy nook by an old raven'snest. About 7 pitons.(5) 80 feet. Clamber right 10 feet to finish up the last pitch <strong>of</strong>Raven Crag Buttress.SUMMIT ROUTE 70 feet. Severe (just) if taken direct. VeryVARIATION difficult by the traverse. First ascent 3rdFINISHOctober, 1959. D.M., D. A. Crawford.(1) 20 feet. The corner 10 feet to the right <strong>of</strong> the start <strong>of</strong> pitch 10can be climbed direct. (Alternatively, from a shelf about6 feet up, traverse 5 feet to the left into a V groove. From abollard about 6 feet up on the right wall a sloping slab leadsto the top <strong>of</strong> the corner.) Ascend a few feet to a belay atthe foot <strong>of</strong> a steep slab on the right.(2) 50 feet. The slab is climbed on small holds to a sentry-box ina well-defined crack which is followed to the top.BUTTERMEREBUCKSTONE HOWECAESAR 200 feet. Very severe. First ascent 27thSeptember, 1959. L. Brown, A. P. Turnbull.Starts 20 yards right <strong>of</strong> Honister Wall at the lowest rocks.(1) 30 feet. Scramble up for a few feet to the base <strong>of</strong> a greengroove which is climbed to a ledge <strong>and</strong> large pedestal belay.

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