76 IN MEMORIAMThey formed a firm climbing partnership <strong>and</strong> under thediscipline <strong>of</strong> gritstone were soon leading at V.S. st<strong>and</strong>ard. Insuccessive seasons they visited the Oberl<strong>and</strong>, the PennineAlps, <strong>and</strong> the south side <strong>of</strong> Mont Blanc, showing a nice blend<strong>of</strong> caution <strong>and</strong> determination. They preferred traverses tomere ascents, their best being those <strong>of</strong> the Schreckhorn, theWeisshorn, the Dent Blanche, the Matterhorn <strong>and</strong> MonteRosa. During their final alpine season, <strong>and</strong> in very mixedweather, they climbed the Aiguilles du Diable, the NorthRidge <strong>of</strong> the Geant, the Route Major <strong>and</strong> the Peuterey Ridge.*Their last two years were full <strong>of</strong> plans <strong>and</strong> paperwork fortheir Himalayan expedition. Knight had already been on twoNottingham University expeditions to North Norway <strong>and</strong>Spitzbergen. They did this work with pleasure, sayingfrequently that even if nothing came <strong>of</strong> it, it would still havebeen fun. It was only towards the end that the other members,including the leader, Keith Warburton, came in. It wasthese two youngest who set the whole enterprise afoot.It would be easy to imagine them as single-minded zealots,bent ascetically on their ambition. Nothing could be furtherfrom the truth. They enjoyed life hugely, <strong>and</strong> loved society.Dick Knight had a courteous <strong>and</strong> easy manner <strong>and</strong> a readylaugh. Stephenson, tall <strong>and</strong> humorously diffident, hadnevertheless big ideas; his first motorcycle was a big twin, hisfirst car a second-h<strong>and</strong> Jaguar. They got a great deal out <strong>of</strong>life, <strong>and</strong> contributed a great deal, too, as all who knew themwill testify.The only clue to their progress before the exceptionallyviolent storms which doubtless caused their death lies in thereport <strong>of</strong> a native ibex hunter who claimed—before the newsbroke <strong>of</strong> the diaster—to have seen through his telescope aparty moving steadily up the summit ridge. The good weathercontinued for four days after this, <strong>and</strong> one would like to hopethey died after climbing their peak.Such conjectures are, <strong>of</strong> course, unpr<strong>of</strong>itable. The bitterfact remains that they did not return. And unfortunately inmountaineering more than in most things nothing succeedslike success. Failure is always liable to bring criticism, largelybecause <strong>of</strong> the illusions climbers cherish <strong>of</strong> the safety <strong>of</strong> theirsport. Lest any should feel that these men were tacklingsomething they were not yet ready for, I would venture to* See Harrv Stephenson's article 'The South Face <strong>of</strong> Mont Blanc,' in the1959 number <strong>of</strong> the Journal (Vol. xviii, No. 3, pp. 262-268)—EDITOR.
IN MEMORIAM 77assert that, protected by all that modern science could givethem, <strong>and</strong> backed as they were by the accumulated knowledge<strong>of</strong> a generation <strong>of</strong> Himalayan climbing, their enterprise wasnot a bit less 'justifiable' than that <strong>of</strong>, say, Mallory <strong>and</strong> Irvine,<strong>of</strong> honoured memory.One must grieve for their death, yet one cannot but applaudthe fearless <strong>and</strong> joyous spirit that took them there.TOM PRICEIt is greatly regretted that it has been found impossible,up to the time <strong>of</strong> going to press, to obtain obituary notices<strong>of</strong> the following members whom the <strong>Club</strong> has lost throughdeath since the last issue <strong>of</strong> the Journal. The Editor wouldwelcome notices for the 1961 number <strong>and</strong> hopes that anyonewho could help will get in touch with her.A. w. BOYD, 1911-1959K. KING, 1937-1959A. E. OLLERENSHAW, 1929-1959R. SOUTH, 1913-1959This applies also to Miss M. D. Weston <strong>and</strong> L. G. Lowrywhose deaths were reported in the 1959 number oi the Journal.Since going to press it has been learned with much regretthat one <strong>of</strong> our earliest members, A. H. Binns, who joined the<strong>Club</strong> in 1907, has died at his home at Stockton-on-Tees.A memoir will appear in the 1961 number <strong>of</strong> the Journal.But we like to thinkTheir spirits, passing like the summer breeze,Still draw their fragrance from our heather slopes,And w<strong>and</strong>er on to greet the tufted grassWithin the crevices <strong>of</strong> some high rock,Where distant views entrance.Lawrence Pilkington