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Year of publication 1960 - Fell and Rock Climbing Club

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Peter M<strong>of</strong>fat 65(4) 80 feet. This pitch is the crux. The prominent crack behindthe tree is climbed until the groove above is gained. Thecrack in the groove is climbed with the aid <strong>of</strong> a loose chockstonewhich is safe. From the groove a traverse left is madeon to an arete which gives exposed climbing. Spike belay.RIGOR MORTIS 190 feet. Very severe. First ascent 18th April,1959. P.R., B. Aughton. Starts just to the right <strong>of</strong> ThirlmereEliminate. Possibly the hardest climb on the crag.(1) 50 feet. Climb to the small overhang, then straight up thesteep crack above.(2) 70 feet. Ascend straight up the corner from the left end <strong>of</strong> theledge. The last 10 feet to the piton, which is in place atthe top <strong>of</strong> the white cone, are climbed resting in slings ontwo flakes. Using an etrier on the piton, tension out acrossthe left wall until a sling can be placed on a minute flake.Use this as a foothold to reach a shallow groove; climbstraight up to the ledge <strong>of</strong> the second pitch <strong>of</strong> ThirlmereEliminate.(3) 70 feet. From the ledge traverse round the corner to the right.After two small gangways are passed bridge a bottomlessgroove <strong>and</strong> swing onto the arete. Finish up the easy chimneyto the right.AGONY300 feet. Very severe. First ascent 24th May,1959. CO., N. Brown. Starts a few feet right<strong>of</strong> a stone wall near the start <strong>of</strong> Gossard.(1) 130 feet. Climb the wall on small holds past a small ledge to ajunction with the gangway <strong>of</strong> Zigzag. About 20 feet tothe right <strong>of</strong> this point is a crack running straight up the face.Reach this by a traverse on good h<strong>and</strong>holds <strong>and</strong> climb it(piton runner) to the slab above. Traverse 10 feet left <strong>and</strong>step up to a big flake, then traverse right to a flake belay.Tree belay 6 feet higher.(2) 120 feet. Climb the easy corner above for a few feet until it ispossible to traverse right to the edge <strong>of</strong> the arete. Adiversion to the right is soon necessary <strong>and</strong> is followed by adelicate move back onto the arete. Big holds then lead tothe slab above. A final pull up leads to the sloping glacis <strong>of</strong>Zigzag <strong>and</strong> a tree belay on the right.(3) 50 feet. Straight up the easy-angled glacis on the left.RAVEN CRAGCOMMUNIST 150 feet. Severe. First ascent September,CONVERT 1959. R. C. Cain, D. Francis. Starts belowDIRECT STARTthe messy lower buttress just left <strong>of</strong> the cornergully which forms the lower section <strong>of</strong> Anarchistchimney.(1) 50 feet. Scramble a few feet to a tree, then go up behind thetree <strong>and</strong> up a crack to the right to a stance in the gully.

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