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Year of publication 1960 - Fell and Rock Climbing Club

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2.2 THE EVENING ALPSCanadian problems but there is no real difficulty. Downbelow the good path loops through such beauty <strong>of</strong> knoll <strong>and</strong>plain <strong>and</strong> vale <strong>and</strong> glade, that we let Alfred step out <strong>of</strong>f home<strong>and</strong> lingered till we almost lost the last bus <strong>and</strong> train back toK<strong>and</strong>ersteg.What now? What would be not too big <strong>and</strong> yet not toosmall <strong>and</strong> not something we had enjoyed to the full in earlierdays? We tried this <strong>and</strong> that! A day <strong>of</strong> surprises came on theSchneehuhnen Stock above the Oberalp. We had noticed awire going up its way, but not till we were among the cliffsdid we realize that they were full <strong>of</strong> voices. The mountainhas been virtually hollowed out, to become a great Radarstation we gathered. Tiny figures lounged <strong>and</strong> carolled,Italians, tunnellers <strong>and</strong> stonemasons as ever, on the lips <strong>of</strong>vast orifices. We felt in a Wellsian fantasy as we clamberedup an artificial, wire-hung, ladder-way while mighty clangings<strong>and</strong> the roaring <strong>of</strong> compressors echoed from within.Perhaps it was the too, too much traffic on the Oberalpthat made us remember out <strong>of</strong> the way Binn, its bridge <strong>and</strong> itschurch <strong>and</strong> the orange-berried rowans <strong>and</strong> magenta fireweed<strong>of</strong> the Hotel Ofenhorn. A jeep, we found, could take us up thevalley as far as Freische. That was a wild pre-dawn drivewith a huge setting moon holding level with us as we rose.Then came a long walk in our own shadows till a clear dawnshowed us what stones we were stumbling through. It is along way up the Ofenhorn, a piece <strong>of</strong> interesting mountaintravel rather than a climb. From the aluminium cross on thesummit you look down to the Italian Rifugio Citta di Busto.It was plainly closed. You have to get the key from far downthe valley but that would be a better thing to do. The Rifugiois 2,400 m., the Ofenhorn 3,242 m. <strong>and</strong> Binn but 1,400 m.<strong>and</strong> a long way <strong>of</strong>f too, we found, as we tramped, facing aflaming sun now where that moon had hung on our way up.We were truly surprised to find ourselves back just in time fora delicious dinner in an old-style alpine mode. All the gueststaking a prepr<strong>and</strong>ial constitutional, exclaimed, 'Are you tired?'And so we came to the Grosser Fusshorn with our oldcompanion <strong>and</strong> friend Joseph Imseng <strong>of</strong> Brigue. I began theday by falling all the way down the near vertical staircase <strong>of</strong>the Ober Aletsch Hut. I.A.R. was just warning me <strong>of</strong> itwhen down I came in the dark. I was lucky to have nothing

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