Year of publication 1960 - Fell and Rock Climbing Club

48 CLIMBS OLD AND NEWBLACK CRAGWACK90 feet. Very severe. First ascent 15th March,1959. P.R., B. Aughton. Starts from thetraverse of Troutdale Pinnacle and goes up the overhang above.The overhang is ascended by the right-hand crack (two pitons inplace). When the lip is reached, the last piton being used high upto the left, move right, then left and straight up the centre of thebuttress to the summit. (6-7 pitons.)BLACK CRAG About hard very difficult or easy severe. FirstORDINARY ROUTE ascent 23rd August, 1959. P.R., E. Rocher.VARIATION FINISHStarts at belay of pitch 10, and goes up to theright in the groove then makes an easy traverseabove the holly tree up on the right and continues up the buttressabove the overhang.(1) 50 feet. Move up in the corner of the open scoop, mantelshelfonto a sloping ledge, traverse right above holly tree, thendrop down slightly to a small ledge (poor belay).(2) 45 feet. Move up right, and finish straight up the rib to thesummit.SHEPHERD'SBLUDGEONCRAG110 feet. Very severe. First ascent 14th April,1957. P.R., P. Lockey. Starts between LittleChamonix and Crescendo.(1) 60 feet. Straight up the little steep arete, then up to the leftof the spike on Little Chamonix. Scramble up to a widegroove just to the right of the last pitches of Crescendo.(2) 50 feet. Move into the groove, then out right and crossScorpion into a groove which is climbed to its top, untilbelow and to the right of the large overhanging pinnacle.Move into the corner to its right with the aid of a piton.With difficulty jam the pinnacle until one can swing toits left. The overhang directly above the top of the pinnacleis climbed with the aid of a crack (very difficult).CONCLUSION80 feet. Very severe. First ascent 2nd October,1955. P.R., P. Whitwell. Starts about 20 feetto the right of Brown Slabs Wall and goes straight up the obviousvertical groove.The first crux is reached after climbing 15 feet to a small tree (pitonrunner here advised). Continue straight up, laybacking anotherslight overhang until an easier groove is reached which is followedonto Brown Slabs Arete.P.S.115 feet. Very severe. First ascent 19th April,1959. P.R., B. Aughton. Starts a few feet tothe right of North Buttress and goes up the broken groove above theholly tree.(1) 50 feet. Straight up the groove until the belay of the last pitchof North Buttress is reached.