Year of publication 1960 - Fell and Rock Climbing Club

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64 CLIMBS OLD AND NEW(2) 50 feet. Climb the small wall to the left of a small tree ontothe overhang, where a traverse left is made to the back of alarge holly tree.(3) 50 feet. Make a rising traverse left until a tree is reached inthe middle of the last pitch of Babylon. Finish up Babylon.SIDE PIKECHEROOT80 feet. Very severe. First ascent 15th November,1959. P. Seddon, P. Callaghan. Starts20 feet left of Spider Crack up a small crack, 6 feet left of a smalltree and 15 feet up on a mossy wall.(1) 40 feet. The small crack is climbed for 15 feet to a ledge.Continue up a broken wall for 15 feet to a grassy ledge5 feet left of and above a small tree.(2) 40 feet. The overhanging grooves above to a large grass ledge.Easy rocks lead to the top.JUDITHto the left of the fence.Climb the arete to the top of the crag.GIRDLE TRAVERSE70 feet. Severe. First ascent 15th November,1959. P. Callaghan, P. Seddon. Starts 30 feet235 feet. Severe. First ascent 17th September,1959. D. Evans, J. A. Hartley (alternate leads).(1) 80 feet. Limpet Groove as far as the ledge above the chockstone.From the ledge continue round to the right up aseries of steps to a stance with poor flake belay.(2) 30 feet. Continue right to the piton on Wall Climb, and crossthe wall to a gully with an arrow-shaped boulder on theright.(3) 50 feet. Move round the corner, cross a groove and continueabove a small tree to the niche belay on Spider Crack.(4) 75 feet. Spider Crack.THIRLMERECASTLE ROCK OF TRIERMAINPRE-NOTION 235 feet. Very severe. First ascent 8th February,1959. R. McHaffie, J. Douglas. Starts10 feet to the left of the wall left of and near the foot of OverhangingBastion and goes up the gangway sloping to the left. The routefollows a natural line up the crag.(1) 50 feet. The gangway is climbed on small but sufficient holdsuntil a groove can be gained. Spike belay.(2) 60 feet. The overhanging groove is the next object. This isclimbed until a tree is gained. The tree is overcome easilyand the groove above is climbed with slight difficulty. Spikebelay.(3) 45 feet. An incipient chimney is ascended on small holdsinside the groove until a break out can be made. A further15 feet of scrambling leads to a tree belay.
Peter Moffat 65(4) 80 feet. This pitch is the crux. The prominent crack behindthe tree is climbed until the groove above is gained. Thecrack in the groove is climbed with the aid of a loose chockstonewhich is safe. From the groove a traverse left is madeon to an arete which gives exposed climbing. Spike belay.RIGOR MORTIS 190 feet. Very severe. First ascent 18th April,1959. P.R., B. Aughton. Starts just to the right of ThirlmereEliminate. Possibly the hardest climb on the crag.(1) 50 feet. Climb to the small overhang, then straight up thesteep crack above.(2) 70 feet. Ascend straight up the corner from the left end of theledge. The last 10 feet to the piton, which is in place atthe top of the white cone, are climbed resting in slings ontwo flakes. Using an etrier on the piton, tension out acrossthe left wall until a sling can be placed on a minute flake.Use this as a foothold to reach a shallow groove; climbstraight up to the ledge of the second pitch of ThirlmereEliminate.(3) 70 feet. From the ledge traverse round the corner to the right.After two small gangways are passed bridge a bottomlessgroove and swing onto the arete. Finish up the easy chimneyto the right.AGONY300 feet. Very severe. First ascent 24th May,1959. CO., N. Brown. Starts a few feet rightof a stone wall near the start of Gossard.(1) 130 feet. Climb the wall on small holds past a small ledge to ajunction with the gangway of Zigzag. About 20 feet tothe right of this point is a crack running straight up the face.Reach this by a traverse on good handholds and climb it(piton runner) to the slab above. Traverse 10 feet left andstep up to a big flake, then traverse right to a flake belay.Tree belay 6 feet higher.(2) 120 feet. Climb the easy corner above for a few feet until it ispossible to traverse right to the edge of the arete. Adiversion to the right is soon necessary and is followed by adelicate move back onto the arete. Big holds then lead tothe slab above. A final pull up leads to the sloping glacis ofZigzag and a tree belay on the right.(3) 50 feet. Straight up the easy-angled glacis on the left.RAVEN CRAGCOMMUNIST 150 feet. Severe. First ascent September,CONVERT 1959. R. C. Cain, D. Francis. Starts belowDIRECT STARTthe messy lower buttress just left of the cornergully which forms the lower section of Anarchistchimney.(1) 50 feet. Scramble a few feet to a tree, then go up behind thetree and up a crack to the right to a stance in the gully.
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ft'H. P. SMLSBURY (President, 19.5K
Page 3 and 4:
CONTENTSPAGEThe North Face of the G
Page 5 and 6:
2 NORTH FACE OF GRANDES JORASSESpai
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4 NORTH FACE OF GRANDES JORASSESdur
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EXTREMES AND EXCESSESHarold DrasdoT
Page 11 and 12:
8 EXTREMES AND EXCESSESget attached
Page 13 and 14:
1(1 EXTREMES AND EXCESSESLater it w
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12 THE EVENING ALPSnice bed here, o
Page 17 and 18: 14 THE EVENING ALPSindeed awaiting
Page 21 and 22: 18 THE EVENING ALPSmaxim: nature ab
Page 23 and 24: 20 THE EVENING ALPSa party of four
Page 25 and 26: 2.2 THE EVENING ALPSCanadian proble
Page 27 and 28: THE MOUNTAINS OF MOURNEPeter Grindl
Page 29 and 30: 26 THE MOUNTAINS OF MOURNEthe Spelg
Page 31 and 32: Peter Grindley 27the line in a very
Page 33 and 34: Peter Grindley 29But this is a digr
Page 35 and 36: G. Oliver 31to the next pitch which
Page 37 and 38: G. Oliver 33Phil Gordon was leading
Page 39 and 40: G. Oliver 35The second pitch, which
Page 41 and 42: SOME SCOTTISH SCRAMBLESTerry Sulliv
Page 43 and 44: Terry Sullivan 39here things went u
Page 45 and 46: A BRAKING HITCHJohn C. LythThis hit
Page 47 and 48: John C. Lyth 43
Page 49 and 50: John C. Lyth 45The rope is laid as
Page 51 and 52: CLIMBS OLD AND NEWEAGLE CRAGTRAPEZE
Page 53 and 54: Peter Moffat 49(2) 65 feet. Continu
Page 55 and 56: Peter Moffat 51right, round a rib,
Page 57 and 58: Peter Moffat 53(2) 100 feet. The be
Page 59 and 60: Peter Moffat 55stance with good fla
Page 61 and 62: Peter Moffat 57(2) 70 feet. Travers
Page 63 and 64: Peter Moffat 59(3) 60 feet. Climb u
Page 65 and 66: Peter Moffat 61LANGDALEGIMMER CRAGK
Page 67: Peter Moffat 63above almost to a ju
Page 71 and 72: Peter Moffat 67the final overhangin
Page 73 and 74: IN MEMORIAMHENRY BRAITHWAITE, 1906-
Page 75 and 76: IN MEMORIAM 71of an observant and i
Page 77 and 78: IN MEMORIAM 73years all school holi
Page 79 and 80: IN MEMORIAM 75number of years a Lib
Page 81 and 82: IN MEMORIAM 77assert that, protecte
Page 83 and 84: CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS 79He carried
Page 85 and 86: CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS 81Terry Sull
Page 87 and 88: THE YEAR WITH THE CLUBHarry Ironfie
Page 89 and 90: ANNUAL DINNER, 1959F. H. F. Simpson
Page 91 and 92: ANNUAL DINNER 87John Hirst did anot
Page 93 and 94: JEKYLL AND HYDE 89While hateful Hyd
Page 95 and 96: SCOTTISH MEETS 91energetic to scram
Page 97 and 98: LONDON SECTION, 1959During this yea
Page 99 and 100: RlSSlANS WITH SOME OK THEIR HOSTS I
Page 101 and 102: 96 EDITOR'S NOTESGimmer where Paul
Page 103: CLIMBING BOOK 1893-1906A note by J.
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Year of publication 1960 - Fell and Rock Climbing Club

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