Year of publication 1960 - Fell and Rock Climbing Club

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36 LLANBERIS PASSThe following day was our last in the Pass and we had timefor only one climb. Cemetery Gate seemed a suitable one tofinish our holiday in spite of its rather morbid name. It is acompanion route to Cenotaph Corner, following its right wall,and, like the Corner, is graded Exceptionally Severe. It islonger, however, as the ground drops away sharply to theright of Cenotaph. We arrived at Dinas Cromlech beforenoon and found the whole crag bathed in sunshine, so Ericselected a belay among some thick bushes to protect his feet,rigidly encased in P.A.s, from the heat.Meanwhile I climbed the introductory section of moderaterock until I was brought to a sudden stop below a bulge. Afterarranging several runners on small spikes, none of whichinspired great confidence, I started up the bulge on finger andtoeholds. A foot above my outstretched hand was a smallshelf, but to reach it I had to raise my right arm while my lefthand took most of my weight, hanging on a wrinkle scarcelymore than a quarter of an inch wide. However, the hardestpart of the move turned out to be plucking up courage toattempt it, and in a moment I was pulling up onto the shelf.Twenty feet higher, the crack above brought me over anotherslight bulge to a belay. The angle of the rock at this pointproved to be too steep to allow me to balance on my stance,but by jamming a piton hammer in the crack and clippingmyself to it I achieved the desired effect.Eric then came up to join me and a short pantomimefollowed as we changed'positions. Eventually we got organizedand I continued up the crack which swept upwards verticallyfor another 60 feet. The holds were quite substantial, thesituation airy and exhilarating, and only the occasional loosehold marred the pitch. The crack ended at a narrow ledgefrom which my companion led through to the top of the cragup a thin flake which did not look particularly sound butproved to be solid enough.Re-united at the top, we had a short bask in the sunshine,and then it was time to return to camp to pack and preparefor the all-night marathon train journey back to Newcastle.But as we were leaving we knew that a return to Llanberis wasinevitable, for these steep Welsh cliffs throw out an irresistiblechallenge to the rock climber and mountaineer alike.
SOME SCOTTISH SCRAMBLESTerry SullivanWe had been in the C.I.C. Hut for three days in lateFebruary and I hadn't even seen Ben Nevis; in fact I hadbegun to think it was a myth. However, a fine spell camealong, and seeing is believing. A few days later we had madesorties on to the North-East Buttress and into Garadh andComb Gullies. Then my friends left and I went down toFort William for food and a companion. Actually I foundthree companions and they had food, so, in such idealcompany, I returned to the hut.The next day we went to 'look at' Platforms Rib. Hamish*mumbled something about 'first winter ascent' and startedoff. After about 100 feet there was a hair-raising traverse leftfor 15 feet, followed by a nasty ice-choked groove which tookHamish quite a time.'Come on up.''Shouldn't we rope up?''Oh, all right then.'We all joined up and went on our way. THE problem wasan ice-coated overhang which Hamish climbed by using twoice pitons. He put them both in and then took out the bottomone, placing it above the other; this was repeated twice andthe overhang was climbed. The rest of us were now facedwith several feet of unclimbable ice.'How do I get over this?''Traverse right above the overhang' a helpful voice said.Above the overhang I duly traversed right, did a tensionmove into a gully and climbed a horrible loose snow-ice wallto get out. There was then a 250-foot groove, and it wasgetting dark. Suddenly the situation was serious. With axein one hand and the rope in the other, we struggled up,blinded by spindrift and the growing darkness. We beat afull retreat down the North-East Buttress, not even removingour crampons until we got to the hut.My next visit was at Easter and everything was covered withfresh snow, but, in brilliant sunshine and with clear skies, weset off for Tower Ridge. At the bottom of the Little Towerwe roped up as the climbing became difficult. There was alot of new snow over ice and it took a total of four hours toreach the foot of the Great Tower. We ate chocolate and* Hamish Maclnnes.
Page 1 and 2: ft'H. P. SMLSBURY (President, 19.5K
Page 3 and 4: CONTENTSPAGEThe North Face of the G
Page 5 and 6: 2 NORTH FACE OF GRANDES JORASSESpai
Page 7 and 8: 4 NORTH FACE OF GRANDES JORASSESdur
Page 9 and 10: EXTREMES AND EXCESSESHarold DrasdoT
Page 11 and 12: 8 EXTREMES AND EXCESSESget attached
Page 13 and 14: 1(1 EXTREMES AND EXCESSESLater it w
Page 15 and 16: 12 THE EVENING ALPSnice bed here, o
Page 17 and 18: 14 THE EVENING ALPSindeed awaiting
Page 21 and 22: 18 THE EVENING ALPSmaxim: nature ab
Page 23 and 24: 20 THE EVENING ALPSa party of four
Page 25 and 26: 2.2 THE EVENING ALPSCanadian proble
Page 27 and 28: THE MOUNTAINS OF MOURNEPeter Grindl
Page 29 and 30: 26 THE MOUNTAINS OF MOURNEthe Spelg
Page 31 and 32: Peter Grindley 27the line in a very
Page 33 and 34: Peter Grindley 29But this is a digr
Page 35 and 36: G. Oliver 31to the next pitch which
Page 37 and 38: G. Oliver 33Phil Gordon was leading
Page 39: G. Oliver 35The second pitch, which
Page 43 and 44: Terry Sullivan 39here things went u
Page 45 and 46: A BRAKING HITCHJohn C. LythThis hit
Page 47 and 48: John C. Lyth 43
Page 49 and 50: John C. Lyth 45The rope is laid as
Page 51 and 52: CLIMBS OLD AND NEWEAGLE CRAGTRAPEZE
Page 53 and 54: Peter Moffat 49(2) 65 feet. Continu
Page 55 and 56: Peter Moffat 51right, round a rib,
Page 57 and 58: Peter Moffat 53(2) 100 feet. The be
Page 59 and 60: Peter Moffat 55stance with good fla
Page 61 and 62: Peter Moffat 57(2) 70 feet. Travers
Page 63 and 64: Peter Moffat 59(3) 60 feet. Climb u
Page 65 and 66: Peter Moffat 61LANGDALEGIMMER CRAGK
Page 67 and 68: Peter Moffat 63above almost to a ju
Page 69 and 70: Peter Moffat 65(4) 80 feet. This pi
Page 71 and 72: Peter Moffat 67the final overhangin
Page 73 and 74: IN MEMORIAMHENRY BRAITHWAITE, 1906-
Page 75 and 76: IN MEMORIAM 71of an observant and i
Page 77 and 78: IN MEMORIAM 73years all school holi
Page 79 and 80: IN MEMORIAM 75number of years a Lib
Page 81 and 82: IN MEMORIAM 77assert that, protecte
Page 83 and 84: CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS 79He carried
Page 85 and 86: CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS 81Terry Sull
Page 87 and 88: THE YEAR WITH THE CLUBHarry Ironfie
Page 89 and 90: ANNUAL DINNER, 1959F. H. F. Simpson
Page 91 and 92:
ANNUAL DINNER 87John Hirst did anot
Page 93 and 94:
JEKYLL AND HYDE 89While hateful Hyd
Page 95 and 96:
SCOTTISH MEETS 91energetic to scram
Page 97 and 98:
LONDON SECTION, 1959During this yea
Page 99 and 100:
RlSSlANS WITH SOME OK THEIR HOSTS I
Page 101 and 102:
96 EDITOR'S NOTESGimmer where Paul
Page 103:
CLIMBING BOOK 1893-1906A note by J.
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Year of publication 1960 - Fell and Rock Climbing Club

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