Year of publication 1960 - Fell and Rock Climbing Club

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4b A B R A K I N G HITCHfree for distances up to 42 feet—the maximum fall possible in thequarry, leaving a suitable margin for the elasticity of nylon rope.An old 1J inch nylon rope, referred to in John Lyth's article, wasused. The karabiner was attached to a stout birch tree on the edgeof the quarry. In each case the fall was easily checked and the victimheld, by one hand, with very little effort. It was perhaps easier tocheck the fall when the karabiner was placed behind the second man;the extra half turn of rope on the karabiner providing some additionalfriction. In the 42-foot drop, however, the karabiner was directly infront of the second who experienced no difficulty in holding theleader. No grip was applied to the rope until it began to run;about 6 feet were then allowed to run as the fall was checked and the'leader' held quite easily. The second wore a leather glove (always awise precaution whatever type of belay is used) and felt that hemight have suffered a minor abrasion if a glove had not been worn.Although the Lyth hitch has not yet had the final test of holding alive leader we feel that a very good case has been made—the evidencebeing ten stone, falling free for 42 feet, held easily by one hand. Theshock to the 'leader' was eased by the stretch of nylon rope plus thegradual braking effect of a further 6 feet running through thekarabiner. After the fall the 'leader' could be lowered with greatease. There was no apparent damage to rope or karabiner althoughthe knot securing the rope around the victim was very tightlyjammed.Probably the most suitable karabiner for the purpose is the largeoval type; the kidney-shaped karabiner might obstruct the runningrope. It might be worth adding a general reminder that care shouldalways be taken, when allowing a rope to run through a karabinerfor any purpose, that the rope does not unscrew the locking ring andthat side pressure cannot be applied to the gate by rope, projectingrock or a second linked karabiner thus causing it to open.If a runner, consisting of sling and karabiner, is used it should notbe forgotten that this will reverse the direction of the pull, shouldthe leader fall. The arrangement of the belay, whatever method isused, should then always be adequate to safeguard against anupward as well as a downward pull.
CLIMBS OLD AND NEWEAGLE CRAGTRAPEZEBORROWDALEPeter Moffat100 feet. Very severe. First ascent 31st May,1959. P.R., G. Woodhouse. Starts at the extremeleft-hand side of the crag where a smooth wall joins the maincrag and forms a large crack.Climb about 20 feet, when the crack steepens. The next 15 feet arestrenuous laybacking on an undercut spike. Continue up thelarge cleft until stopped by big chockstones forming a cave.Swing out to the left to escape.THE CLEFT 210 feet. Very severe. First ascent 22ndAugust, 1959. P.R., A. Rosher. Starts to theright of Falcon Crack, at an obvious cleft in the centre of the crag.(1) 50 feet. Start in the corner then move left and up two grassledges until below an overhanging crack. Move withdifficulty right, onto a large ledge below the smoothlookingcleft. Block belay.(2) 50 feet. (5 pitons, 3 in place.) Ascend the corner direct withthe aid of pitons until a move left can be made to a sharpspike for sling and etrier. The last piton is reached from thisspike and an awkward move right made to a good ledge andspike belay on the right.(3) 60 feet. Pitch 5 of Girdle.(4) 50 feet. Traverse left to the edge, then straight up to the top.EAGLE CRAGGIRDLE340 feet. Verv severe. First ascent 31st May,1959. P.R., G. Woodhouse, F. Carroll. Startsat the extreme right-hand side of the crag tothe left of a large grassy gully.(1) 70 feet. The groove is climbed via the arete on the left. Moveright at the top to a large grass ledge and block belay.(2) 30 feet. Move down left onto the lower grass ledge, thentraverse the steep open groove round the corner. Continueleft to a small steep corner; pull over this towards a tree in agroove up to the left. Straight up to the belay on pitch 3of Post Mortem.(3) 50 feet. Delicate moves left from the ledge for about 20 feet;then continue to belay above large shattered blocks. (Lowchockstone belay on Green Wall.)(4) 25 feet. Move out left up to large grass ledge, belay on the right.(5) 60 feet. A very steep traverse left on good holds until a ledge(with a nest) is reached. High holds over the bulge aboveare reached and a strenuous mantelshelf to a good ledge andpiton belay.(6) 40 feet. Traverse out left to the steep rib, then descend to abelay below a large chimney.(7) 65 feet. Finish up the chimney (last pitch of Great Stair).D
Page 1 and 2: ft'H. P. SMLSBURY (President, 19.5K
Page 3 and 4: CONTENTSPAGEThe North Face of the G
Page 5 and 6: 2 NORTH FACE OF GRANDES JORASSESpai
Page 7 and 8: 4 NORTH FACE OF GRANDES JORASSESdur
Page 9 and 10: EXTREMES AND EXCESSESHarold DrasdoT
Page 11 and 12: 8 EXTREMES AND EXCESSESget attached
Page 13 and 14: 1(1 EXTREMES AND EXCESSESLater it w
Page 15 and 16: 12 THE EVENING ALPSnice bed here, o
Page 17 and 18: 14 THE EVENING ALPSindeed awaiting
Page 21 and 22: 18 THE EVENING ALPSmaxim: nature ab
Page 23 and 24: 20 THE EVENING ALPSa party of four
Page 25 and 26: 2.2 THE EVENING ALPSCanadian proble
Page 27 and 28: THE MOUNTAINS OF MOURNEPeter Grindl
Page 29 and 30: 26 THE MOUNTAINS OF MOURNEthe Spelg
Page 31 and 32: Peter Grindley 27the line in a very
Page 33 and 34: Peter Grindley 29But this is a digr
Page 35 and 36: G. Oliver 31to the next pitch which
Page 37 and 38: G. Oliver 33Phil Gordon was leading
Page 39 and 40: G. Oliver 35The second pitch, which
Page 41 and 42: SOME SCOTTISH SCRAMBLESTerry Sulliv
Page 43 and 44: Terry Sullivan 39here things went u
Page 45 and 46: A BRAKING HITCHJohn C. LythThis hit
Page 47 and 48: John C. Lyth 43
Page 49: John C. Lyth 45The rope is laid as
Page 53 and 54: Peter Moffat 49(2) 65 feet. Continu
Page 55 and 56: Peter Moffat 51right, round a rib,
Page 57 and 58: Peter Moffat 53(2) 100 feet. The be
Page 59 and 60: Peter Moffat 55stance with good fla
Page 61 and 62: Peter Moffat 57(2) 70 feet. Travers
Page 63 and 64: Peter Moffat 59(3) 60 feet. Climb u
Page 65 and 66: Peter Moffat 61LANGDALEGIMMER CRAGK
Page 67 and 68: Peter Moffat 63above almost to a ju
Page 69 and 70: Peter Moffat 65(4) 80 feet. This pi
Page 71 and 72: Peter Moffat 67the final overhangin
Page 73 and 74: IN MEMORIAMHENRY BRAITHWAITE, 1906-
Page 75 and 76: IN MEMORIAM 71of an observant and i
Page 77 and 78: IN MEMORIAM 73years all school holi
Page 79 and 80: IN MEMORIAM 75number of years a Lib
Page 81 and 82: IN MEMORIAM 77assert that, protecte
Page 83 and 84: CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS 79He carried
Page 85 and 86: CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS 81Terry Sull
Page 87 and 88: THE YEAR WITH THE CLUBHarry Ironfie
Page 89 and 90: ANNUAL DINNER, 1959F. H. F. Simpson
Page 91 and 92: ANNUAL DINNER 87John Hirst did anot
Page 93 and 94: JEKYLL AND HYDE 89While hateful Hyd
Page 95 and 96: SCOTTISH MEETS 91energetic to scram
Page 97 and 98: LONDON SECTION, 1959During this yea
Page 99 and 100: RlSSlANS WITH SOME OK THEIR HOSTS I
Page 101 and 102:
96 EDITOR'S NOTESGimmer where Paul
Page 103:
CLIMBING BOOK 1893-1906A note by J.
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Year of publication 1960 - Fell and Rock Climbing Club

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