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Render <strong>of</strong> the third-floor design. The white, triangular shoe display units are<br />

freestanding and can be regrouped for a variety <strong>of</strong> formations.<br />

homogeneity into the fifth floor, creating a ‘Lotte<br />

experience’ beyond the women’s luxury labels.<br />

Jonathan Clarke, director <strong>of</strong> Universal, infused the concept<br />

with his preference for ‘a space that was much more about<br />

curation’, whereby an overarching intelligence actively places<br />

potentially diverse objects together to create a unique,<br />

layered environment. This approach was blended with Lotte’s<br />

own desire for a design that combined ‘elegance’ and<br />

‘garden’, which it called ‘Eliden’, a rather clunky composite<br />

<strong>of</strong> the two words.<br />

Part <strong>of</strong> Universal’s success is based on its creation <strong>of</strong><br />

textured space through the use <strong>of</strong> pattern in a variety <strong>of</strong><br />

materials and scales. This has been used to great effect in<br />

smaller retail spaces, but the breadth <strong>of</strong> the Lotte project<br />

allowed the idea to be taken further. The individual<br />

concession boxes were cleared out and replaced by three<br />

distinct areas, which nonetheless remain visually connected<br />

within a 50-metre (164-foot) long gallery. The same, irregular<br />

crisscross pattern emerges in a series <strong>of</strong> screens in different<br />

materials that delineate the three areas: fret-cut, blacklacquered<br />

timber; screenprinted glass; and fabric. Combining<br />

transparency and separation through the use <strong>of</strong> screens<br />

obviously draws upon oriental design and also satisfies a local<br />

cultural leaning towards physical privacy.<br />

Adding to the overall cohesiveness is a timber floor and,<br />

running the entire length <strong>of</strong> the gallery, a wall <strong>of</strong> threedimensional<br />

ceramic tiles, similar to those used in the<br />

McCartney design, but here drawing upon the traditional<br />

Korean interest in textiles and pattern-making. Display<br />

systems include perforated sheets <strong>of</strong> vertical glass (with the<br />

clothes hangers inserted into the holes), suspended rails and<br />

clear glass units.<br />

The third-floor accessories department has also been<br />

redesigned by Universal. Again, the rabbit warren <strong>of</strong><br />

concessions has been cleared out to create a dynamic, central<br />

space. Clarke used the privacy <strong>of</strong> screens once more, as<br />

‘accessories are highly personal’, while also lending the space<br />

a feeling <strong>of</strong> transparency. The screens and the displays<br />

become one within floor-to-ceiling glass cases, inserted with<br />

underlit metal shelves. However, the most striking aspect <strong>of</strong><br />

the display system is a series <strong>of</strong> low-level, triangular Corian<br />

units that can be placed together in different formations. The<br />

Corian surfaces are tilted to display shoes at an angle, and<br />

Clarke says this is a response to the fact that shoes are rarely<br />

displayed in the way that we usually see them. The triangular<br />

units pick up on the hard geometry <strong>of</strong> the design: regimented<br />

triangles also form the pattern <strong>of</strong> the flooring, the black<br />

Plexiglass ceiling and the screens. The masculinity is s<strong>of</strong>tened,<br />

though, by the shadow pattern <strong>of</strong> dappled leaves (inspired by<br />

the stained impression <strong>of</strong> leaves on pavements) visible<br />

through the top layer <strong>of</strong> Corian. Initially, further moderation<br />

was to be provided by columns clad in living moss, but this<br />

idea proved unworkable, giving way to a green marble.<br />

On both floors, Universal has managed to create a balance<br />

between the identity <strong>of</strong> the store and the brands, using<br />

pattern and texture to <strong>of</strong>fer a sense <strong>of</strong> event while also<br />

bringing a refreshing intelligence to product display. 4<br />

Howard Watson is an author, journalist and editor based in London. He is coauthor,<br />

with Eleanor Curtis, <strong>of</strong> the new 2nd edition <strong>of</strong> Fashion Retail, Wiley-<br />

Academy, March 2007, isbn 0470066474, £34.99. See www.wiley.com. Previous<br />

books include Bar Style (2005), The Design Mix: Bars, Cocktails and Style<br />

(2006) and Hotel Revolution: 21st-Century Hotel Design (2005), also<br />

published by Wiley-Academy.<br />

Text © 2007 John Wiley & Sons Ltd. Images © Universal Design Studio<br />

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