Food & Home + Pears Three historic remodels 100 Farm to Table P R 104 Oregon Recipes 106 Home Grown Chef S 108 Design photo by Blaine and Bethany Photography Farm to Table Jennifer Euwer with Molly at Valley Crest Orchards.
Food & Home Au farm to tale Pear The subtle sweetness of the state fruit finds itself in many dishes written by Sophia McDonald photos by Blaine Franger THE HUMBLE OREGON PEAR RARELY GETS ITS DUE. The subtle fruit is often overshadowed by the flashy berry or its more popular cousin, the apple. Since pears come late in the growing season, they may get ignored by canners vying for that last box of tomatoes or kids stampeding for the pumpkin patch. Nevertheless, the pear is a quintessential Oregon crop. In fact, it was declared the official state fruit in 2005. Nearly 85 percent of the pears eaten in the United States are grown in the Pacific Northwest, and Oregon’s Hood River and Rogue Valley regions are major contributors to that harvest. Valley Crest Orchards, twenty miles south of Hood River in the small town of Parkdale, presents a modest profile reminiscent of its principal crop. There’s not even a sign out front. Owner, Jennifer Euwer, rides around the property in an unassuming pick-up truck, her dog, Molly, sitting shotgun, and her rain gear nearby. Euwer’s family has been on this property for one hundred years, growing fruit all along. When her grandfather arrived in 1912, he built a log cabin with lumber from the property, planting apples in place of the felled trees. After his death in 1942, Euwer’s grandmother took over the farm and ran it until her son, Eugene, came of age. Eugene carried on the family tradition until 2001, when Euwer took over day-to-day management of the property. Running a 120-acre orchard wasn’t always in her plans. Euwer earned a bachelor's degree in economics from Stanford University, with an emphasis in the food industry. She flirted with the idea of going to law school but didn’t want to commit to anything until she gave the family farm a shot. Living in a small home not far from the tiny log cabin that once housed her grandparents, Euwer has been back on the farm ever since. Most farmers in the area planted apples in the early twentieth century, Euwer says, but the region’s hard frosts often killed off the crop. Growers then switched to pears because the trees are hardier and the market is more exclusive. “If you look at any pear-growing region, you’ll notice a snowy mountain peak nearby,” says Cristie Mather, director of communications for Pear Bureau Northwest. Hood River, sitting at the base of Mt. Hood, has rich volcanic soil, plenty of water for irrigation and an ideal climate for producing pears. Green and red-skinned Anjous do particularly well here, but Valley Crest also produces Bartlett, Bosc, Comice and Star Crimson pears. Like many tree fruits, pears do not cross-pollinate, so it’s essential to plant different varieties together. The color of the fruit’s skin determines the color of the tree’s leaves, and the result is a patchwork of green and red foliage rolling across the hillsides of Euwer’s property. She looks out over acres of specimens she planted with her father, as well as a small patch of thicktrunked trees put in the ground by her grandfather. The latter are nearly one hundred years old, but they still produce pears. Just as these trees are part of her family legacy, so too are the orchard’s workers. Some of Euwer’s employees had parents or other family members who worked alongside her father. 100 <strong>1859</strong> oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT <strong>2012</strong> LEFT Anjou pears ripening at Valley Crest Orchards. RIGHT clockwise Jennifer Euwer with her dog, Molly. View of Mount Hood from Valley Crest. Leaf color is determined by pear skin color.
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