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One of the TOP 5 Sailing Destinations in the United States CASCADE LOCKS oregon AUG SEPT 10-12 11 14-19 23-24 25-26 25-26 30-31 1-2 29er US National Championships Double Damned Race US Youth Sailing Championships O’Pen Bic Performance Racing Camp Pacific Crest Trail Days O’Pen Bic UnRegatta NWISA Pre-Regatta Laser Clinic NWISA Singlehanded District Champs CascadeLocks.net departs daily from ashland springs hotel and harry & david in medford 1.855.550.Wine www.southernoregonWinerytours.com We are a 100% oregon Company
The ’90s and Now Paul Trendler climbs Rampage in the Marsupials at Smith Rock State Park. In the ’90s, things changed. “There was a definite lull in the rock climbing scene, and Smith fell off the circuit as climbers started to go to other areas that got more publicity and weren’t as far off the beaten path,” notes Greg Garretson, 34. He started climbing at Smith Rock as a 14-year-old, ditching high school classes in Bend to further his budding climbing career. In 1995, journeyman climber Tim Toula published his comprehensive guide itemizing all of the best places to climb across the country. With this bible in hand, climbers fanned out from Smith, landing in places such as Red Rock in Las Vegas, Red River Gorge in Kentucky, New River Gorge in West Virginia and Colorado’s Rifle Canyon. Slowly, though—over the past five to six years—Garretson and others have witnessed a rebirth at Smith Rock. “People are really psyched to be at Smith again, and many of the classic lines that had been forgotten are getting new attention,” says Garretson. The climbing scene, as he is quick to point out, is less about the publicity of flashing new routes in neon spandex. “Best of all the adventure is back,” he asserts. What began with a rappel, a drill and heresy has today become mainstream for novice to competitive climbers. Vanessa Burdick, a 23-year-old competitive climber from Georgia, arrived in Central Oregon a year-and-a-half ago to attend school at Oregon State University’s Cascades campus. “The fact that Smith Rock was so close motivated my choice to go to OSU-Cascades,” she says. The growth of the local college campus has helped draw younger climbers to the area, but so has the weather. Finding a crag that was good to climb year-round was one of the reasons Cristina Rose Mastrangelo, 30, moved to Bend from Vermont eighteen months ago. She is drawn to the variety of routes, many of which are technique-intensive. “The challenging climbing here only makes you better,” she says. As Burdick and Mastrangelo enhance the current climbing community, a new generation ascends Smith Rock’s hard surfaces. Once recognized as one of the world’s most daring alpine climbers, John Bouchard now teaches school in Redmond and climbs at Smith Rock with his wife, Nancy, and their three young girls. “Of all the areas I’ve climbed, Smith Rock is one of the most familyfriendly,” Bouchard assesses. “The routes are accessible via short, easy hikes. There are plenty of one-pitch climbs that are low angle enough that they are not intimidating, even for toddlers."
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