EurOCEAN 2000 - Vlaams Instituut voor de Zee

anemometers supply the wind data. Attention is paid to the morphology of the field site. The
foreshore is characterised by a bar and a trough which have a big influence on the wave
climate, partly due to the quick changes of the bottom profile. A run-up gauge mounted along
the slope detects the run-up levels which can be checked by video recordings.
Level [m]
Level [m]
15
10
5
0
-5
-10
-15
-20
0 100 200 300 400 500 600 700
Distance [m]
Fig. 2: Position of measuring locations in the surf zone. The wave buoys MP1 and MP2 are
located at a distance of 8300 and 3500 m from the crest of the dike (x = 0)
13
11
9
7
5
3
1
-1
MP13 MP14, 19, 21
MP20
MP9-12 MP8 MP7
-3
-80 -60 -40 -20 0 20 40 60 80 100
Distance [m]
Fig. 3: Position of measuring locations in the run-up zone
LABORATORY MEASUREMENTS
In order to optimise the measurement equipment for run-up, several preliminary laboratory
tests have been carried out on both rough and smooth slopes. Finally, a new digital step gauge
has been developed (fig. 4). The end of each needle of the comb can be adjusted to the profile
of the slope so the distance between the armour units and the gauge is less than 2 mm. In case
of a traditional (analogue) run-up gauge the distance between the armour units and the gauge
can mount to much higher values. First results show that higher run-up levels are detected with
this digital step gauge than with a traditional run-up gauge.
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