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EurOCEAN 2000 - Vlaams Instituut voor de Zee

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SEDIMENT TRANSPORT MODELLING IN MARINE COASTASL<br />

CONDITIONS<br />

INTRODUCTION<br />

Leo C. van Rijn 1<br />

1 Delft Hydraulics, P.O. Box 177, 2600 MH, Delft, The Netherlands<br />

The state of the marine environment is a matter of concern for several countries within the<br />

European Union. An important aspect of this is the future evolution of the coastline, where<br />

uncertainty arises both from the morphological impacts of human interference (e.g. beach<br />

nourishment and coastal protection schemes), and also the expected future rise in sea-level and<br />

associated climatic variations. These changes may gradually alter patterns of waves and currents<br />

and, hence, the sediment transport pathways in coastal areas. In the medium- and long-term, such<br />

changes may profoundly influence the stability of the shoreline itself, with all that this entails for<br />

the security and livelihoods of the large proportion of the population living near the coast.<br />

The practical solution of real-life, coastal engineering problems in the short- and medium-term<br />

necessarily involves site-specific studies, often including the acquisition of field data. However,<br />

great expense is involved in carrying out field studies and, in recent years, increasing emphasis<br />

has been placed on the <strong>de</strong>velopment of computer-based, coastal sediment transport and<br />

morphological mo<strong>de</strong>lling systems. Such mo<strong>de</strong>ls are generally capable of representing the surface<br />

waves and currents in a coastal area with consi<strong>de</strong>rable accuracy. However, the same claim cannot<br />

be ma<strong>de</strong> for their prediction of net sediment transport rates, due largely to our presently<br />

incomplete un<strong>de</strong>rstanding of <strong>de</strong>tailed transport processes.<br />

OBJECTIVES<br />

The general objective of the present project sedmoc (sedmoc = sediment transport mo<strong>de</strong>lling in<br />

marine coastal environments) is to fill gaps in our existing knowledge of transport processes of<br />

non-cohesive sediments in the marine coastal environment.<br />

The objectives of the project are summarized, as:<br />

• To increase knowledge of the physical processes involved in transport of non-cohesive<br />

sediment (sand) un<strong>de</strong>r the influence of waves and currents;<br />

• To <strong>de</strong>velop improved predictive mathematical mo<strong>de</strong>ls for the quantitative <strong>de</strong>scription of<br />

sediment transport processes, which achieve accuracy within a factor of ±2 throughout the<br />

physical parameter ranges of importance in coastal engineering practice and<br />

• To <strong>de</strong>liver simplified sand transport mo<strong>de</strong>ls for use in coastal morphological mo<strong>de</strong>ls and in<br />

coastal engineering practice.<br />

To this end, <strong>de</strong>tailed physical process mo<strong>de</strong>ls of differing complexity are being improved,<br />

intercompared and validated in relation to experimental data from the laboratory and the field;<br />

new laboratory experiments are being performed to investigate physical parameter ranges in<br />

which uncertainty presently exists; and existing field data are being analysed to ensure that the<br />

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