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EurOCEAN 2000 - Vlaams Instituut voor de Zee

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line is the 6-hourly operational analysis provi<strong>de</strong>d by the German Weather Service, whereas the<br />

solid line is the one-hourly best guess taken from a GESIMA simulation selected according to<br />

the observed wind at an other pile some 15 km away. The dashed and solid lines in the diagram<br />

with the significant wave height represent the response of the wave mo<strong>de</strong>l to the two types of<br />

wind fields, the 6-hourly German Weather Service analyses and the 1-hourly GESIMA<br />

estimates. Seemingly, the German Weather Service analyses tend to overestimate the wind<br />

velocity and it fails to exhibit temporal <strong>de</strong>tail. This wind and wave analysis scheme will play<br />

an important role in the system to be set up for the Odra Lagoon as wind and wave mixing are<br />

first or<strong>de</strong>r processes in the <strong>de</strong>termination of the nutrient state of the Lagoon.<br />

Significant wave height in April 1995<br />

recor<strong>de</strong>d by a wave ri<strong>de</strong>r buoy in the Odra<br />

Lagoon. Triangles: in-situ observations;<br />

dashed: wave mo<strong>de</strong>l results forced with the<br />

smoothed 6-hourly analyses of the German<br />

Weather Service; solid: the same, but with<br />

the use of the best guesses <strong>de</strong>rived from<br />

GESIMA simulations, conditioned upon wind<br />

observations (T.-Wolff, et al. In press).<br />

Wind velocities and directions in April 1995 at a pile in the Odra Lagoon. Triangles: in-situ<br />

observations; dashed: smoothed 6-hourly analyses of the German Weather Service; solid: best<br />

guesses <strong>de</strong>rived from GESIMA simulations, conditioned upon wind observations at another<br />

pile some 15 km away. From T.-Wolf, pers. comm.<br />

5. CONCLUSION<br />

Presently, coastal research is un<strong>de</strong>rgoing a paradigmatic change; while in then past emphasis<br />

was placed on the study of processes, now the insight gained in the past is asked to be<br />

455

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