october-2012

THE IRISH RIVIERA
A short ride from Dublin Airport is Dalkey, a beautiful and well-heeled
coastal spot mixing history with a scattering of modern celebrity. With
Bono as a neighbour, no wonder they call it the Dublin Riviera
Schauspieler erwecken die Geschichte
von Dalkey Castle zum Leben
Dalkey Heritage Centre where
actors play historical characters
Take a 25-minute
southbound DART
(Dublin Area Rapid
Transport) ride from Dublin
City Centre and you’ll fi nd
yourself at the idyllic, genteel
seaside village of Dalkey. This
being Ireland, the journey is a
leisurely meander. One stop
further than Dalkey lies Killiney
station; the stretch between the
two is arguably the most
picturesque on this coastal train
route. The cool bohemian vibe of
Dalkey owes much to it having
become something of a magnet
for artists, musicians and
writers. Some of the more
famous residents are U2’s Bono,
singer Enya and The Crying
Game director Neil Jordan.
Although it’s always a blast to see
a bona-fi de rock star grabbing a
pint at Finnegan’s Pub, it is a rare
sight indeed, even for locals. If it
should happen, do the Dalkey
thing and pretend it’s perfectly
normal to rub shoulders with
global superstars.
After a coff ee, or indeed the
ubiquitous pint, a good starting
point is the Dalkey Heritage
Centre where you can
‘experience a live theatre
performance as part of a guided
tour’. Rather than being plied
with endless historical facts,
visitors are treated to an array of
memorable characters who tell
their own particular tales of
medieval life while weaving in
the fascinating history of Goat
Castle, the fortifi ed house in
which the centre is located. You
may even catch a glimpse of a
ghost among the adjacent ruins
of St Begnet’s Church which
dates from the 10th century.
D U B L I N
Young children especially fall
readily under the actors’ spell.
Goat Castle is one of just two
remaining out of the seven
fortifi ed houses which once
dotted the village. The other,
Archibold Castle, lies just
across the street but although
well preserved, off ers no
public access. Perhaps the
highlight of the tour is the
chance to go out onto the
battlements where you’ll be
treated to panoramic views of
the surrounding area. After an
hour of light-hearted historical
GW—55