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Mae Festa 50 Years of Collecting Textiles - Peter Pap Oriental Rugs

Mae Festa 50 Years of Collecting Textiles - Peter Pap Oriental Rugs

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AFRICA – Sub-Sahara<br />

Man’s Festive Tunic (overleaf)<br />

Mid-late 20 th Century<br />

Woodabe People, Niger<br />

Balanced strip weave. Homespun indigo cotton<br />

ground (save for black/white center strip),<br />

polychrome (red, white, green, yellow, orange)<br />

embroidery and strips <strong>of</strong> scalloped white<br />

cotton appliqué.<br />

208.5 x 26 cm 82 x 10½ in<br />

These striking costumes are fashioned by the immediate<br />

female relatives <strong>of</strong> a young Woodabe (also called Bororo)<br />

man for the now famous annual courting dance in<br />

which Woodabe males present themselves to the young<br />

women <strong>of</strong> the tribe as possible mates. They do so by<br />

beautifying themselves with cosmetics and rolling their<br />

eyes dramatically while engaging in a row dance before<br />

the young women. This tunic displays no fewer than<br />

twenty-two different designs or motifs in its embroidery,<br />

usually in paired panels divided by a strip <strong>of</strong> white<br />

appliqué, in three instances in one larger panel (69<br />

panels overall). The ground is formed <strong>of</strong> the narrowest<br />

<strong>of</strong> gauze-like, homespun indigo-dyed cloth, 1.4 cm (½ in<br />

across), eighteen <strong>of</strong> them across the tunic, plus the one,<br />

somewhat broader central strip, which appears gray due<br />

to the alternating black and white warps. (detail facing page)<br />

352

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