Mae Festa 50 Years of Collecting Textiles - Peter Pap Oriental Rugs

CENTRAL ASIA – Uzbekistan
Woman’s Coat (Chapan)
ca. 1920
Ferghana Valley
Half silk (silk warps, cotton wefts) warp-faced
ikat, Russian, machine-printed trade cloth.
170 x 131 cm 59½ x 51½ in
This coat was produced late in the tradition, and
exhibits the striping associated with the Ferghana
production. There are five colors: natural white, yellow,
light green, fuchsia and purple. With the exception,
perhaps, of the yellow (derived locally from isparak,
or larkspur, also called yellow delphinium) the colors
are chemical-dyed. Russian trade cloth is used for its
lining, another striped commercial material employed
along the interior hem, and a third for an interior
pocket. A black cotton edge finish is machine-sewn on
and decorative machine sewing is applied just inside
this finish around the exterior. As is characteristic of
many coats in the later decades of the tradition, the
silk is watered to very rich effect.
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