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Mae Festa 50 Years of Collecting Textiles - Peter Pap Oriental Rugs

Mae Festa 50 Years of Collecting Textiles - Peter Pap Oriental Rugs

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AFRICA – Sub-Sahara<br />

Panel from Ceremonial Underskirt (Nchak)<br />

(above)<br />

Early 20 th Century<br />

Bushong Ethnic Group, Kuba Kingdom,<br />

Democratic Republic <strong>of</strong> Congo<br />

Raffia palm leaf fiber, plainwoven, appliquéd<br />

and embroidered; cotton trade cloth. One <strong>of</strong><br />

several panels, woven by men, and typically<br />

embroidered by women <strong>of</strong> the extended family.<br />

63 x 45 cm 25 x 18 in<br />

This panel is from the same basic type <strong>of</strong> ceremonial<br />

underskirt worn by women <strong>of</strong> the royal family in the<br />

capital <strong>of</strong> Mushenge from newly-arrived cotton trade<br />

cloth in the 1920s. Since such cloth was novel at the<br />

time, it was reserved for costume for the vast royal<br />

family. The fragment <strong>of</strong> blue trade cloth is treated<br />

the same way as the other twelve raffia appliqués in<br />

this panel, sewn on with black raffia fiber. The dense<br />

web <strong>of</strong> essentially linear embroidery is similar to the<br />

other panel.<br />

366<br />

Cloth Square (Latoon)<br />

3 rd Quarter 20 th Century<br />

Mbenge or Bushong Ethnic Group,<br />

Kuba Kingdom,<br />

Democratic Republic <strong>of</strong> Congo<br />

Plainwoven raffia palm leaf fiber enhanced<br />

with all-over running embroidery, natural<br />

and dyed black.<br />

46 x 41 cm 18 x 16 in<br />

This striking little raffia square is distinguished<br />

not only by the beauty <strong>of</strong> its design but by the<br />

exclusive use <strong>of</strong> overall running embroidery,<br />

accomplished by running the needle under and over<br />

the fibers in the plainweave foundation, always with<br />

one <strong>of</strong> the cross-fibers underneath the embroidery<br />

fiber leaving virtually no evidence <strong>of</strong> this work on<br />

the face <strong>of</strong> the piece.

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