Mae Festa 50 Years of Collecting Textiles - Peter Pap Oriental Rugs

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used in their native settings; Central Asia, Bhutan, Western China, Morocco, and many other destinations. During the post WWII era, as world economies and tourism expanded, tribal and antique textiles began to surface everywhere. Immediately upon my return from Turkey, I joined textile societies and study groups. I met like-minded people and enjoyed travels with many of them. I had become a collector. In my collecting, I became aware that the textile arts are a common thread within all cultures, both ancient and modern, and that all mankind’s history is involved. Basically, all techniques of textile art known to us now, were known by South American pre-Columbian cultures before the end of the first millennium AD. What is most astounding and fascinating to me is the way these myriad methods of textile production and use were manifested so differently in the specific cultures in which they were used. So many variations were developed based on the availability of materials, requirements of use and other cultural and local imperatives. This is, in short, the Art of Textiles. When I look at a particular small Tiraz fragment, I marvel at the extraordinary finely woven silk and linen. I can hardly believe that it was woven in the 10 th century, very likely by a Coptic weaver. Now it is carefully mounted and preserved for others to see. And what a vision; within an elaborate interlaced strapwork design appear doves, plants and other wonderful forms. It’s delicacy is extremely engaging. During a trip with a study group in 1994 to western China, we stopped for several days in Bukhara. While walking through the ancient market, we came upon an individual who had set up his carpet wares just outside the shop areas. A small group had assembled and was examining his offerings. In a pile of carpets, there was a fragment which I immediately found appealing. The merchant attempted to explain the importance of a light, yellowy color in the design by pointing to it and saying “onion, onion”. Meanwhile, the bus was waiting. We settled on a very low price, I threw the Turkmen juval fragment under my arm and caught up with my companions. Back in the U.S.A., I brought the piece to a highly regarded New York dealer for cleaning. He later made an offer for the piece in the mid four figures, with the observation that at auction it might fetch five figures. How exciting! Over time, I have realized that my interest was not in researching specific origins or finding masterpieces, but in seeing the individual aesthetic appeal of each piece that I have acquired. To know it, marvel at its beauty, technique, color, form; its refinement of design or basic primal power. After that initial trip to Turkey, I came back with a new focus and now, many years later, find myself with an incredibly eclectic collection of textiles which delights me everyday. Every piece has a compelling presence. Each textile stands alone as a piece of this extremely diversified mosaic that has become my collection. This catalog is the result of wanting to share some of this delight with other textile enthusiasts. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Several years ago, in conversation with David Powrie, an architect friend, he encouraged me to think about doing a catalog of my textile collection. At this time David had been seriously developing his skills as a painter, and had begun working on my portrait. During many sittings we discussed the concept of a catalog at some length, and he convinced me of the need to do this. I owe David a debt of gratitude not only for his encouragement, but for the many, many hours spent organizing and formatting the photographic material. After the decision to proceed, I approached Ron Livieri, and architectural photographer and avid collector himself, to describe the potential project and ask whether he could participate in the photography. He thought about it for some time and then agreed to be involved. From the very beginning, I knew that there would be limitations to what could be included, so we simply began shooting the more obvious selections. Ron, assisted by Nancy Adams, an old friend and talented artist, photographed the major part of the images in the catalog. This contribution is
greatly appreciated. Also, constant critic, ally, and contributor is my husband Gene Festa, whose insight and steadfast encouragement has been invaluable during the four years of this gestation. Another key member of our team, Samantha Bertini, made an essential contribution with her superior computer skills and discerning eye. Thank you Samantha. Thanks are also due to many of my textile collecting friends for their information and advice on various areas of the collection. Rug authority Mike Tschebull helped with information on some of the pile weaving from the Mid East and Central Asia. With his incredible experience and expertise on African and Southeast Asian textiles, Jeff Spur supplied most of the information on the pieces from these areas. Thanks to Desiree Koslin for her generous professional support and editorial skills. I want to acknowledge the encouragement and support along the way by Thomas Murray, Mary Kahlenburg, and Gail Martin. I must also mention the great inspiration, understanding and energy I received from Cora Ginsburg, the legendary dealer in fine American and European textiles. Towards the end of this whole process my good friend, the photographer Robert Swerling offered valuable advice on the printing and production of the images in the catalog. Other resources which were invaluable in this project have been the Hajji Baba Club in New York, the Textile Museum in Washington D.C., and that paragon of excellence, HALI, the textile journal. Mae Festa CONTENTS INDONESIA 2 Sumatra, Java, Bali, Timor, Borneo, Lombok, Roti JAPAN 38 Honshu, Hokaido SOUTHEAST ASIA 60 Polynesia, Phillipines, Laos, Burma CHINA 78 Hainan Island, Guizhou, Sinkiang, Straites of China, Shanxi TIBET 112 Tibet, Bhutan CENTRAL ASIA 140 Uzbekistan, Kyrgystan, Turkmenistan INDIA 180 Lahore, Kashmir, Gujarat, Ragistan, Benares, Jaipur, Punjab, Ladakh, Naga MIDDLE EAST 210 Iran, Kurdistan, Syria, Palistine, Caucusus, Azarbyjan TURKEY 262 Ottoman, Bursa, Milos, Amatalia, Siirt EUROPE 288 England, Italy, Spain, France, Kosovo, Greece AFRICA 326 Egypt, Morocco, Tunisia, Algeria, Sub-Sahara THE AMERICAS 374 Peru, Bolivia, Mexico, USA
Page 1 and 2: Mae Festa 50 Years of Collecting Te
Page 3: INTRODUCTION During the period sinc
Page 8 and 9: INDONESIA - Sumatra Gift Cover (Tam
Page 10 and 11: INDONESIA - Sumatra Tapis (Ceremoni
Page 12 and 13: INDONESIA - Sumatra Ritual Cloth 19
Page 14 and 15: INDONESIA - Eastern Sumatra Pillow
Page 17 and 18: INDONESIA - Java Shawl (Slendang) 1
Page 19 and 20: INDONESIA - Bali Slendang Prada (fr
Page 21 and 22: INDONESIA - Borneo Basket Panel 19
Page 23 and 24: INDONESIA - Roti Man’s Textile (D
Page 25 and 26: JAPAN Fragment 18 th Century Kinran
Page 27 and 28: JAPAN Fragment 17 th Century Kyoto
Page 29 and 30: JAPAN Fragment 19 th Century Silk w
Page 31 and 32: JAPAN Fragment Early 20 th Century
Page 33 and 34: JAPAN Chest Protector 19 th Century
Page 35 and 36: SOUTHEAST ASIA - Polynesia Painted
Page 37 and 38: SOUTHEAST ASIA - Philippines Sash (
Page 39 and 40: SOUTHEAST ASIA - Laos Meditation Sh
Page 41 and 42: SOUTHEAST ASIA - Laos Meditation Sh
Page 43 and 44: SOUTHEAST ASIA - Burma Shoulder Clo
Page 45 and 46: CHINA Brocade (fragment) Late 13 th
Page 47 and 48: CHINA Roundel (Rank Badge) 19 th Ce
Page 49 and 50: CHINA Purses (2), Pillowends (3) Ea
Page 51 and 52: CHINA Skirt Late 19 th Century Li e
Page 53 and 54: CHINA Sleeve (fragment) Late 19 th
Page 55 and 56:
CHINA Sleeve (fragment) 20 th Centu
Page 57 and 58:
CHINA Boys Layered Jacket Mid 20 th
Page 59 and 60:
CHINA Ceremonial Collar 19 th Centu
Page 61 and 62:
TIBET Buddhist Monk’s Cape Late 1
Page 63 and 64:
TIBET Ritual Cloth 18 th Century Sm
Page 65 and 66:
TIBET Woman’s Garment (Kira) Earl
Page 67 and 68:
TIBET Apron Early 20 th Century Thr
Page 69 and 70:
TIBET Rug Early 20 th Century White
Page 71 and 72:
BHUTAN Shoulder Cloth (Rachu) Mid 2
Page 73 and 74:
BHUTAN Tent Band Mid 20 th Century
Page 75 and 76:
CENTRAL ASIA - Uzbekistan Dowry Emb
Page 77 and 78:
CENTRAL ASIA - Uzbekistan Ikat Hang
Page 79 and 80:
CENTRAL ASIA - Uzbekistan Ikat Hang
Page 81 and 82:
CENTRAL ASIA - Uzbekistan Length of
Page 83 and 84:
CENTRAL ASIA - Uzbekistan Belt (fac
Page 85 and 86:
CENTRAL ASIA - Uzbekistan Decorativ
Page 87 and 88:
CENTRAL ASIA - Kyrgyzstan Decorativ
Page 89 and 90:
CENTRAL ASIA - Uzbekistan Hamam Bag
Page 91 and 92:
CENTRAL ASIA - Kyrgystan Tent Band
Page 93 and 94:
CENTRAL ASIA - Turkmenistan Bag Fac
Page 95 and 96:
INDIA Fragment ca. 1690-1700 Moghul
Page 97 and 98:
INDIA Shawl Fragment 19 th Century
Page 99 and 100:
INDIA Sari (Patola) 19 th Century G
Page 101 and 102:
INDIA Sutra Cover (Prayer Book) 18
Page 103 and 104:
INDIA Panel 18 th Century Benares B
Page 105 and 106:
INDIA Garment Cover (Rumal) 19 th C
Page 107 and 108:
INDIA Blanket 20 th Century Ladakh
Page 109 and 110:
INDIA - Nagaland Men’s Body Cloth
Page 112 and 113:
MIDDLE EAST - Iran Zoroastrian Brid
Page 114 and 115:
MIDDLE EAST - Iran Small Bag (Chant
Page 116 and 117:
MIDDLE EAST - Iran Bag Face (Khorji
Page 118 and 119:
MIDDLE EAST - Iran Bag Face (Khorji
Page 120 and 121:
MIDDLE EAST - Kurdistan Bag Face (K
Page 122 and 123:
MIDDLE EAST - Syria Child’s Coat
Page 124 and 125:
MIDDLE EAST - Syria Women’s Purse
Page 126 and 127:
MIDDLE EAST - Caucusus Saddle Bag 1
Page 128 and 129:
MIDDLE EAST - Caucusus Kaitag 18 th
Page 130 and 131:
Page 132 and 133:
Page 134 and 135:
MIDDLE EAST - Azarbayjan Spindle or
Page 136 and 137:
TURKEY Ritual Cloth Fragment 17 th
Page 138 and 139:
TURKEY Kerchief Early 19 th Century
Page 140 and 141:
TURKEY Towel/Napkin Mid 19 th Centu
Page 142 and 143:
TURKEY Fragment 18 th Century Bursa
Page 144 and 145:
TURKEY Purses 19 th Century Crochet
Page 146 and 147:
TURKEY Woman’s Vest 19 th Century
Page 148 and 149:
TURKEY Bedcovers Mid 20 th Century
Page 150:
EUROPE - England Furnishing Fabric
Page 153 and 154:
EUROPE - Italy Border Fragment 17 t
Page 155 and 156:
EUROPE - France “Bizarre” Silk
Page 157 and 158:
EUROPE - Greece Garment Fragment ca
Page 159 and 160:
EUROPE - Greece Shawl (shown folded
Page 161 and 162:
EUROPE - Greece Cushion Early 20 th
Page 163 and 164:
EUROPE - Greece Apron Early 20 th C
Page 165 and 166:
EUROPE - Greece Bed Rug Mid 20 th C
Page 167 and 168:
EUROPE - Greece Handbag 20 th Centu
Page 169 and 170:
AFRICA - Egypt Ornamental Tunic Ele
Page 171 and 172:
AFRICA - Morocco Women’s Shawl (H
Page 173 and 174:
AFRICA - Maghrib Bridal Veil (front
Page 175 and 176:
AFRICA - Tunisia Head cover (Tajira
Page 177 and 178:
AFRICA - Algeria Woman’s Turban C
Page 179 and 180:
AFRICA - Sub-Sahara Wearing Blanket
Page 181:
AFRICA - Sub-Sahara Man’s Festive
Page 184 and 185:
AFRICA - Sub-Sahara Fragment of Man
Page 186 and 187:
AFRICA - Sub-Sahara Woman’s Minia
Page 188 and 189:
AFRICA - Sub-Sahara Panel from Cere
Page 190 and 191:
AFRICA - Sub-Sahara Mat (above) 3 r
Page 192 and 193:
SOUTH AMERICA - Peru Fragment ca. 5
Page 194 and 195:
SOUTH AMERICA - Peru Tunic Fragment
Page 196 and 197:
SOUTH AMERICA - Peru Breech Cloth F
Page 198 and 199:
SOUTH AMERICA - Peru Border Fragmen
Page 200 and 201:
SOUTH AMERICA - Peru Plaited Band 2
Page 202 and 203:
SOUTH AMERICA - Peru Baby Carrier E
Page 204 and 205:
SOUTH AMERICA - Bolivia Woman’s M
Page 206 and 207:
SOUTH AMERICA -Bolivia Coca Bag (Ch
Page 208:
U.S.A. - Northeast Belt Mid 19 th C
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Mae Festa 50 Years of Collecting Textiles - Peter Pap Oriental Rugs

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