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Mae Festa 50 Years of Collecting Textiles - Peter Pap Oriental Rugs

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AFRICA – Sub-Sahara<br />

Cloth Square (Latoon)<br />

(above)<br />

Mid-20 th Century<br />

Showa Ethnic Group, Kuba Kingdom,<br />

Democratic Republic <strong>of</strong> Congo<br />

Plainwoven raffia palm leaf fiber enhanced<br />

with running embroidery and pile, the latter<br />

natural and dyed black.<br />

59 x 66 cm 23 x 26 in<br />

The Showa people are traditionally credited with<br />

introducing pile embroidery to Kubaland. Before the<br />

18 th century, woven raffia squares were the primary<br />

currency in the Central Congo. Amongst the Kuba<br />

such squares, exhibiting the investment <strong>of</strong> time and<br />

creativity, retained their cultural value, and could be<br />

used as gifts or as payment for fines, and were on rare<br />

occasions employed to embellish ceremonial costumes.<br />

This example exhibits the Showa penchant for theme<br />

and variation, sometimes resulting in subtle shifts<br />

by the border finish, it also features the bifurcated<br />

triangles, one half in black pile, that one regularly<br />

sees in Showa latoon. Here only one unit is broken<br />

up in checkerboard fashion by the use <strong>of</strong> black pile<br />

against natural.<br />

364<br />

Panel from Ceremonial Underskirt (Nchak)<br />

Mid-20 th Century<br />

Bushong Ethnic Group, Kuba Kingdom,<br />

Democratic Republic <strong>of</strong> Congo<br />

Raffia palm leaf fiber, plainwoven, embroidered<br />

and appliquéd. One <strong>of</strong> several panels, woven by<br />

men, and typically embroidered by women <strong>of</strong><br />

the extended family.<br />

59 x 67 cm 23 x 26½ in<br />

This panel is from one <strong>of</strong> the basic types <strong>of</strong> ceremonial<br />

underskirt worn by Bushong women on special occasions.<br />

It contains three small appliqués, which may have<br />

covered breaks in the ground cloth. The elaborate web<br />

<strong>of</strong> embroidery in a broadly rectilinear format is<br />

characteristic <strong>of</strong> many <strong>of</strong> these long skirts as are the<br />

endless knot and “arrow head” motifs.

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