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Saving Fish from Drowning - Heal Burma

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AMY TAN<br />

the narrow canal, one of a watery lacework that ran through the<br />

streets of Lijiang. If you were to sit on the sill, you could have dipped<br />

your toes in the tranquil flow. The tables and chairs were old, marked<br />

with character in the way that has become popular with antiques in<br />

America nowadays, nothing refinished, no scratches or cigarette<br />

marks buffed out, the century-old bits of food now serving as grout<br />

in the cracks.<br />

The beers arrived, somber toasts were called out:<br />

“To better times ahead.”<br />

“Much better.”<br />

Dwight immediately suggested they vote in democratic fashion<br />

whether to leave Lijiang the next day so they might get an earlier<br />

start on <strong>Burma</strong>. When he called for the yea votes, the only holdouts<br />

were Bennie, Vera, and Esmé.<br />

Bennie was understandably concerned about an early departure. If<br />

they left early, he would be the one scrambling to patch in a new itin­<br />

erary. A day in the border town of Ruili and then three extra days in<br />

<strong>Burma</strong>—what would they do? But he said nothing in casting his nay,<br />

not wishing to come across as inadequate. He should have realized<br />

that the democratic process has no place on travel tours. Once you<br />

are a tour leader, absolute rule is the only way to go.<br />

Vera tried to exercise her executive veto. She was used to working<br />

in an organization in which she was the top boss. As a born leader,<br />

she demanded consensus, and through her unilateral decisions, and<br />

her famous eye-locking gaze, she attained it. But here in China she<br />

was one of the masses. When the votes were called for, she appealed<br />

to the group’s rationality. “Fiddle-dee-dee. I don’t believe for a sec­<br />

ond that the chief has the clout to bar us <strong>from</strong> other places. Think<br />

about it. Is he able to get on the Internet and e-mail his cronies in a<br />

hundred places? Of course not.”<br />

“He had a cell phone,” Moff reminded her.<br />

“I doubt he’s going to waste his precious cell phone minutes to<br />

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