Saving Fish from Drowning - Heal Burma

AMY TAN
hard and well, and the military government finally sought a truce so
that they might negotiate like reasonable despots of the world. By
and by, the tribe signed off to a cease-fire in exchange for a nod to
build a business empire, unobstructed by the government and unfet­
tered by competition. The Burma Road and its tollbooths, the major
airlines, and some of the hotels my friends would be staying in were
under the control of this entrepreneurial tribe. In the corporate
world of Myanmar, hostile takeovers mean something different from
what they do in the United States.
Shortly after his announcement, Walter asked the driver to pull
into a small dirt road off the highway.
“Bathroom break,” Wyatt said, “just in time.” Others agreed.
“This is not a rest stop,” Walter said diplomatically. “If you can be
patient, we will make another stop further up the road. The reason I
brought you here is so that you can see one of our traditions followed
by nearly all, without regard to religion or tribe.” He got out of the
bus and, followed by the others, walked up to what looked like a
bamboo birdfeeder, decorated with Christmas tinsel, placed in the
cranny of a tree. “This is a small shrine for a Nat. . . .” He went on
to explain that Nats were believed to be the spirits of nature—the
lake, the trees, the mountains, the snakes and birds. They were number­
less. But thirty-seven had been designated official Nats, most of
them historical people associated with myths or real tales of hero­
ism. Some were martyrs, people who had been betrayed or had suf­
fered a premature and frightful death. One had died of diarrhea and
was reputed to inflict that on those who displeased him. Regardless
of their origins, they were easily disturbed, given to making a fuss
when they were not treated with respect. My friends made jokes
about odious people they knew who would make good Nats.
There were also local Nats in villages, and household Nats that
lived in shrines in family homes. People gave them gifts, food and
168