29.03.2013 Views

Saving Fish from Drowning - Heal Burma

Saving Fish from Drowning - Heal Burma

Saving Fish from Drowning - Heal Burma

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.

SAVING FISH FROM DROWNING<br />

have passed for a child <strong>from</strong> Lijiang. The majority of the inhabitants<br />

were the result of centuries of bedtime mergers among Han Chi­<br />

nese, a dozen Yunnan tribes, and over the ages, British opportunists,<br />

European explorers, passing nomads, and fleeing Jews. The popu­<br />

lace was an unplanned and lovely mix, no two ever the same, just<br />

like art.<br />

It was a thrilling, vertiginous run—the smell of morning fires,<br />

steaming cauldrons, and fire-snapping grills, the awesome snowy<br />

peaks. “Coming up behind you,” they would shout, and then pass<br />

successive clusters of Naxi women with their crisscross halters to<br />

which were secured ninety-pound loads of pine needles pressing on<br />

their backs.<br />

Our early-morning risers spent forty-five minutes aerobically seiz­<br />

ing their lungs at an altitude of seven thousand eight hundred seventy-<br />

four feet and a temperature of forty-eight degrees, then chanced<br />

upon the perfect place to breakfast. What luck: there they were, sit­<br />

ting among the locals on long benches, gulping down with proletar­<br />

ian gusto bowls of thick spicy noodles and chives, a breakfast that<br />

well suited them, since their confused stomachs had been crying that<br />

it was time for a flavorful dinner and not a bland breakfast.<br />

At nine, the nip in the air was gone, and when the hale and hearty<br />

returned to the hotel, they were ready for more adventures. They<br />

rang up the others, gurgling over what delights were to be seen while<br />

running about in the fresh alpine air as opposed to dozing in a dreary<br />

room. Soon everyone was in the lobby, so that they could meet up<br />

with the local guide and be on their way.<br />

Bennie announced that there had been a slight change in plans. He<br />

quickly assured them that it was all for the better. He had had a<br />

phone call earlier that morning <strong>from</strong> a man who told him that their<br />

guide <strong>from</strong> yesterday, Mr. Qin, had experienced an unavoidable<br />

problem. (The problem was that another tour leader, who knew of<br />

Qin’s merits, had, with a few dollars pushed into helpful hands, pi­<br />

65

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!