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Saving Fish from Drowning - Heal Burma

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AMY TAN<br />

pets had only a few watermelon stains. A small amount of toilet pa­<br />

per was doled out each day, adequate if one had intestinal fortitude.<br />

More was available on request or by theft <strong>from</strong> the supplies cart in<br />

the hall that was monitored by a surveillance camera. The Glorious<br />

View Villa was, in fact, the best hotel in the whole of the Naxi<br />

Autonomous Region, but for a group used to staying at a chain no<br />

worse than the Four Seasons, “best” should have been thought of as<br />

a restricted comparative term, not a fixed standard of excellence.<br />

This distinction was lost on Roxanne and Dwight, who tried the<br />

knobs on the bedside consoles, the ubiquitous fixture of Chinese<br />

hotels. They duly clicked to appropriate notches marked “Lights,”<br />

“TV,” “Stereo.” The lights remained lit, the television stayed black,<br />

the radio silent. “How can this be a first-class hotel?” Roxanne<br />

groused. “This place is the pits.”<br />

Because Lijiang had been described as “historic,” “remote,” and<br />

“near the Tibetan foothills,” Roxanne had imagined they would be<br />

staying in a nomadic tent–style villa. The floors should have been<br />

beaten earth covered with yak hides, the walls adorned with color­<br />

ful tapestries. She wanted saddled and snorting camels waiting<br />

outside, in lieu of battle-scarred taxis and tens of thousands of<br />

tourists, most of whom were Chinese. But it was only Dwight who<br />

was snorting. He nuzzled his wife’s breasts, his usual sign that he<br />

wished to mate. I use the word “mate” deliberately. They were both<br />

desperate to have a baby before it was too late. For this trip, she told<br />

him, she had brought along the thermometer, and the last reading in­<br />

dicated it was prime time. She wasn’t in the mood, but this was not<br />

about lust.<br />

“I can’t believe they make beds even smaller than twins,” Roxanne<br />

said. She pointed disparagingly at the twin bed with its headboard<br />

permanently nailed to the wall, a good six feet apart <strong>from</strong> its match.<br />

“Honey, see if you can get us a room with a king-sized bed. If we<br />

have to pay more, so be it.” And Dwight dashed down four flights of<br />

58

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