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Saving Fish from Drowning - Heal Burma

Saving Fish from Drowning - Heal Burma

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SAVING FISH FROM DROWNING<br />

<strong>from</strong> the bark of the thanaka tree. As with Shanghainese people,<br />

Burmese women prize pale skin. The paste supposedly affords sun-<br />

blocking properties. But I tried it on past tours and can tell you that<br />

the effect is quite drying. While it may shield the skin, it parches it to<br />

the appearance of cracked adobe. I cannot say it was flattering to my<br />

face. I looked like a dried-up clown doll.<br />

Bennie had the CDs for Walter in a sack. Everything was falling<br />

into place. He would hand over the bribe and they would get the<br />

paperwork and be approved to enter. He hadn’t told Lulu, for fear<br />

that what Walter was doing was on the side of illegality. Let her think<br />

that they got in on their own good luck. This morning she had said<br />

simply, “We must try. And if we are success, your Myanmar tour<br />

guide, Mr. Maung Wa Sao, will meet you at the crossing place.”<br />

At the Chinese border station, Lulu presented passports and doc­<br />

uments to the uniformed police. Armed guards stood nearby. After<br />

ten minutes of inspecting and stamping and huffing with authority,<br />

the border police waved us on, and my friends waved back cheerfully,<br />

but no one returned their smiles. After a half a kilometer, the bus<br />

stopped in front of a large white gate.<br />

“Soon you and I must say good-bye,” Lulu said. “In a few minutes,<br />

your Burmese tour guide will meet you and take you over the border<br />

into Muse.”<br />

“I thought we already crossed,” Moff said.<br />

“You have left China,” Lulu said. “But to leave one place is not the<br />

same as entering another. You are in <strong>Burma</strong>, but you have not crossed<br />

the official border. So you are in between.”<br />

It suddenly struck me that what Lulu had said described exactly<br />

how I felt. In between.<br />

“Oh, great—we’re in limbo,” Rupert said.<br />

Lulu nodded. “Yes, limbo. You do not yet know which way is com­<br />

ing, which is going. In China we are very use to this situation.”<br />

I wondered how long I would be in my own limbo. The Buddhists<br />

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