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Saving Fish from Drowning - Heal Burma

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SAVING FISH FROM DROWNING<br />

What they tasted was not the chili substitute often found in<br />

American-made Sichuan tofu. The Lijiang version was made of the<br />

berrylike pods of the prickly ash. The zing in the mouth derives <strong>from</strong><br />

the numbing quality that the berries have on the mucosa. And the<br />

particular variety of the genus Zanthoxylum that my friends were<br />

eating was not only <strong>from</strong> Sichuan but also of the Himalayan region,<br />

where people eat it like jelly beans. It tends to have more heat factor,<br />

ma-ness, and also to cause an almost anesthesia-like paralysis of the<br />

gut, especially in those who are delicately inclined. That would be<br />

Dwight, I might add.<br />

T HE NEXT DAY, when the group assembled for breakfast, Bennie<br />

had an announcement: “By nothing short of a miracle, Miss Rong,<br />

as a final courtesy, was able to book flights for us today so that we<br />

can leave as soon as possible.” In a few hours, they would leave for<br />

Lijiang airport and fly to Mangshi, which was only a couple of<br />

hours’ drive <strong>from</strong> the <strong>Burma</strong> border. As Bennie knew, palm-greasing<br />

helps to speed things along. The night before, after the group had<br />

voted to leave Lijiang, he rang up Miss Rong and said he would give<br />

her two hundred U.S. dollars of his own money to use as she saw fit,<br />

no questions asked, if only she could help him out of this predica­<br />

ment. She in turn gave away a portion of that to the various expe­<br />

diters connected with hotels, airlines, and the office of tourism, who,<br />

in the age-old custom of guanxi-giving, showed their appreciation by<br />

granting almost a full refund on the much-shortened visit to Lijiang.<br />

At ten in the morning, they boarded the flight, and as they as­<br />

cended, so did their moods. They had escaped their troubles with<br />

nothing more than a few mosquito bites and the pinch of several<br />

thousand kwai.<br />

Their new guide, Miss Kong, was there to meet them at the gate in<br />

101

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