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The Best of Wedding Photography.pdf - Free

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take up more room on media storage cards and they take<br />

longer to write to the cards. As a result, many wedding<br />

photographers find it more practical to shoot JPEGs and<br />

perfect the color balance when creating the exposure,<br />

much like shooting conventional transparency film with its<br />

unforgiving latitude. This topic is covered in greater detail<br />

below.<br />

A system that many pros follow is to take a custom<br />

white balance <strong>of</strong> a scene where they are unsure <strong>of</strong> the lighting<br />

mix. By selecting a white area in the scene and neutralizing<br />

it with a custom white-balance setting, you can<br />

be assured <strong>of</strong> an accurate color rendition.<br />

Others swear by a device known as the Wallace Expo-<br />

Disc (www.expodisc.com), which attaches to the the lens<br />

like a filter. You take a white-balance reading with the disc<br />

in place and the lens pointed at your scene. It is highly accurate<br />

in most situations and can also be used for exposure<br />

readings.<br />

SHARPENING AND CONTRAST<br />

Image sharpening should be set to <strong>of</strong>f or minimal. Sharpening<br />

is usually the last step before output and should be<br />

done in Photoshop where there is optimum control. Contrast<br />

should also be adjusted to the lowest setting. According<br />

to California wedding photographer Becker, “It’s<br />

always easy to add contrast later, but more difficult to take<br />

away.”<br />

White balance is crucial<br />

to good exposure technique,<br />

particularly when<br />

shooting JPEG files. A<br />

situation like this, with<br />

mixed lighting in varying<br />

degrees, calls for a<br />

custom white balance to<br />

be sure your colors are accurate.<br />

Photograph by<br />

Tibor Imely.<br />

FILE FORMAT<br />

RAW retain the highest amount <strong>of</strong> image data from the<br />

original capture. While not as forgiving as color negative<br />

film, RAW files can be “fixed” to a much greater degree<br />

than JPEGs. If you shoot in RAW mode, you should back<br />

up the RAW files as RAW files; these are the original images<br />

and contain the most data. Shooting in the RAW<br />

mode has several drawbacks, however. First, it requires the<br />

use <strong>of</strong> RAW file-processing s<strong>of</strong>tware to translate the file information<br />

and convert it to a useable format. Also, if you<br />

are like most wedding photographers and need fast burst<br />

rates, RAW files will definitely slow you down. In addition,<br />

they will fill up your storage cards or microdrives much<br />

more quickly than JPEGs because <strong>of</strong> their larger file size.<br />

Your other file option is shooting in the JPEG Fine<br />

mode (sometimes called JPEG Highest Quality mode).<br />

Shooting in JPEG mode creates smaller files, so you can<br />

save more images per media card or microdrive. It also<br />

does not take as long to write the JPEG files to memory<br />

and allows you to work much more quickly. <strong>The</strong> biggest<br />

drawback to JPEG files is that they are a “lossy” format,<br />

meaning that since the JPEG format compresses file information,<br />

these files are subject to degradation by repeated<br />

saving. Most photographers who shoot in JPEG mode either<br />

save the file as a copy each time they work on it, or<br />

save it to the TIFF format, which is “lossless,” meaning it<br />

can be saved again and again without degradation.

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