The Best of Wedding Photography.pdf - Free
The Best of Wedding Photography.pdf - Free
The Best of Wedding Photography.pdf - Free
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from the camera lens. It is a dramatic style <strong>of</strong> lighting used<br />
to accent elegant features. It is used less frequently now<br />
than in the past, but it is still a stylish type <strong>of</strong> lighting.<br />
In rim lighting, the main light is placed behind the<br />
subject so that it illuminates the pr<strong>of</strong>ile <strong>of</strong> the subject<br />
and leaves a polished highlight along the edge <strong>of</strong> the face.<br />
<strong>The</strong> main light will also highlight the hair and neck <strong>of</strong> the<br />
subject. Care should be taken so that the accent <strong>of</strong> the<br />
light is centered on the face and not so much on the hair<br />
or neck.<br />
<strong>The</strong> fill light is moved to the same side <strong>of</strong> the camera<br />
as the main light and a reflector is used for fill. An optional<br />
hair light can be used on the opposite side <strong>of</strong> the main<br />
light for better tonal separation <strong>of</strong> the hair from the background.<br />
<strong>The</strong> background light is used normally.<br />
AVOID OVERLIGHTING<br />
In setting the lights, it is important that you position the<br />
lights gradually, studying their effect as you use more and<br />
more light aimed at the subject. If you merely point the<br />
light directly at the subject, you will probably overlight the<br />
person, producing pasty highlights with no detail.<br />
Adjust the lights carefully, and observe the effects from<br />
the camera position. Instead <strong>of</strong> aiming the light so that the<br />
core <strong>of</strong> light strikes the subject, feather the light so that<br />
you employ the edge <strong>of</strong> the light to light the subject. <strong>The</strong><br />
trick is to add brilliance to your highlights. This is achieved<br />
by the use <strong>of</strong> careful lighting. <strong>The</strong> highlights, when brilliant,<br />
have minute specular (pure white) highlights within<br />
the main highlight. This further enhances the illusion <strong>of</strong><br />
great depth in a portrait.<br />
Sometimes feathering won’t make the skin “pop”<br />
(show highlight brilliance) and you’ll have to make a lateral<br />
adjustment to the light or move it back from its current<br />
position. A good starting position for your main light<br />
is 8–12 feet from the subject.<br />
LIGHTING RATIOS<br />
<strong>The</strong> term “lighting ratio” is used to describe the difference<br />
in intensity between the shadow and highlight side<br />
<strong>of</strong> the face. It is expressed numerically. A 3:1 ratio, for example,<br />
means that the highlight side <strong>of</strong> the face has three<br />
units <strong>of</strong> light falling on it, while the shadow side has only<br />
one unit <strong>of</strong> light falling on it. Ratios are useful because<br />
they determine how much local contrast there will be in<br />
the portrait. <strong>The</strong>y do not determine the overall contrast<br />
<strong>of</strong> the scene; rather, lighting ratios determine how much<br />
contrast you will give to the lighting <strong>of</strong> the subject(s).<br />
As a reflection <strong>of</strong> the difference in intensity between<br />
the main light and the fill light, the ratio is an indication<br />
<strong>of</strong> how much shadow detail you will have in the portrait.<br />
Because the fill light controls the degree to which the<br />
shadows are illuminated, it is important to keep the lighting<br />
ratio fairly constant. A desirable ratio for outdoor<br />
group portraits in color is 3:1; it is ideal for average faces.<br />
Determining Lighting Ratios. <strong>The</strong>re is considerable<br />
debate and confusion over the calculation <strong>of</strong> lighting ratios.<br />
This is principally because you have two systems at<br />
work, one arithmetical and one logarithmic. F-stops are in<br />
themselves a ratio between the size <strong>of</strong> the lens aperture<br />
and the focal length <strong>of</strong> the lens, which is why they are expressed<br />
as f/2.8, for example. <strong>The</strong> difference between one<br />
f-stop and the next full f-stop is either half the light or double<br />
the light. F/8 lets in twice as much light through a<br />
lens as f/11 and half as much light as f/5.6.<br />
However, when we talk about light ratios, each full stop<br />
is equal to two units <strong>of</strong> light. <strong>The</strong>refore, each half stop is<br />
equal to one unit <strong>of</strong> light, and each quarter stop is equivalent<br />
to half a unit <strong>of</strong> light. This is, by necessity, arbitrary,<br />
but it is a practical system for determining the difference<br />
between the highlight and shadow sides <strong>of</strong> the face.<br />
<strong>The</strong> groom’s white tux acts as the perfect high-key fill, illuminating all<br />
<strong>of</strong> the shadows on the bride’s face and in her eyes, creating a very low<br />
lighting ratio. Photograph by Bruno Mayor.<br />
STUDIO LIGHTING 65