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The Best of Wedding Photography.pdf - Free

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from the camera lens. It is a dramatic style <strong>of</strong> lighting used<br />

to accent elegant features. It is used less frequently now<br />

than in the past, but it is still a stylish type <strong>of</strong> lighting.<br />

In rim lighting, the main light is placed behind the<br />

subject so that it illuminates the pr<strong>of</strong>ile <strong>of</strong> the subject<br />

and leaves a polished highlight along the edge <strong>of</strong> the face.<br />

<strong>The</strong> main light will also highlight the hair and neck <strong>of</strong> the<br />

subject. Care should be taken so that the accent <strong>of</strong> the<br />

light is centered on the face and not so much on the hair<br />

or neck.<br />

<strong>The</strong> fill light is moved to the same side <strong>of</strong> the camera<br />

as the main light and a reflector is used for fill. An optional<br />

hair light can be used on the opposite side <strong>of</strong> the main<br />

light for better tonal separation <strong>of</strong> the hair from the background.<br />

<strong>The</strong> background light is used normally.<br />

AVOID OVERLIGHTING<br />

In setting the lights, it is important that you position the<br />

lights gradually, studying their effect as you use more and<br />

more light aimed at the subject. If you merely point the<br />

light directly at the subject, you will probably overlight the<br />

person, producing pasty highlights with no detail.<br />

Adjust the lights carefully, and observe the effects from<br />

the camera position. Instead <strong>of</strong> aiming the light so that the<br />

core <strong>of</strong> light strikes the subject, feather the light so that<br />

you employ the edge <strong>of</strong> the light to light the subject. <strong>The</strong><br />

trick is to add brilliance to your highlights. This is achieved<br />

by the use <strong>of</strong> careful lighting. <strong>The</strong> highlights, when brilliant,<br />

have minute specular (pure white) highlights within<br />

the main highlight. This further enhances the illusion <strong>of</strong><br />

great depth in a portrait.<br />

Sometimes feathering won’t make the skin “pop”<br />

(show highlight brilliance) and you’ll have to make a lateral<br />

adjustment to the light or move it back from its current<br />

position. A good starting position for your main light<br />

is 8–12 feet from the subject.<br />

LIGHTING RATIOS<br />

<strong>The</strong> term “lighting ratio” is used to describe the difference<br />

in intensity between the shadow and highlight side<br />

<strong>of</strong> the face. It is expressed numerically. A 3:1 ratio, for example,<br />

means that the highlight side <strong>of</strong> the face has three<br />

units <strong>of</strong> light falling on it, while the shadow side has only<br />

one unit <strong>of</strong> light falling on it. Ratios are useful because<br />

they determine how much local contrast there will be in<br />

the portrait. <strong>The</strong>y do not determine the overall contrast<br />

<strong>of</strong> the scene; rather, lighting ratios determine how much<br />

contrast you will give to the lighting <strong>of</strong> the subject(s).<br />

As a reflection <strong>of</strong> the difference in intensity between<br />

the main light and the fill light, the ratio is an indication<br />

<strong>of</strong> how much shadow detail you will have in the portrait.<br />

Because the fill light controls the degree to which the<br />

shadows are illuminated, it is important to keep the lighting<br />

ratio fairly constant. A desirable ratio for outdoor<br />

group portraits in color is 3:1; it is ideal for average faces.<br />

Determining Lighting Ratios. <strong>The</strong>re is considerable<br />

debate and confusion over the calculation <strong>of</strong> lighting ratios.<br />

This is principally because you have two systems at<br />

work, one arithmetical and one logarithmic. F-stops are in<br />

themselves a ratio between the size <strong>of</strong> the lens aperture<br />

and the focal length <strong>of</strong> the lens, which is why they are expressed<br />

as f/2.8, for example. <strong>The</strong> difference between one<br />

f-stop and the next full f-stop is either half the light or double<br />

the light. F/8 lets in twice as much light through a<br />

lens as f/11 and half as much light as f/5.6.<br />

However, when we talk about light ratios, each full stop<br />

is equal to two units <strong>of</strong> light. <strong>The</strong>refore, each half stop is<br />

equal to one unit <strong>of</strong> light, and each quarter stop is equivalent<br />

to half a unit <strong>of</strong> light. This is, by necessity, arbitrary,<br />

but it is a practical system for determining the difference<br />

between the highlight and shadow sides <strong>of</strong> the face.<br />

<strong>The</strong> groom’s white tux acts as the perfect high-key fill, illuminating all<br />

<strong>of</strong> the shadows on the bride’s face and in her eyes, creating a very low<br />

lighting ratio. Photograph by Bruno Mayor.<br />

STUDIO LIGHTING 65

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