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The Best of Wedding Photography.pdf - Free

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it up for better modeling. If you want to accentuate the<br />

lighting pattern and darken the background and shadows,<br />

increase the flash output to 1/2 to one stop greater than the<br />

daylight exposure and expose for the flash. Do not underexpose<br />

your background by more than a stop, however, or<br />

you will produce an unnatural nighttime effect.<br />

Many times this effect will allow you to shoot out in<br />

open shade without fear <strong>of</strong> hollow eye sockets. <strong>The</strong> overhead<br />

nature <strong>of</strong> the diffused daylight<br />

will be overridden by the directional<br />

flash, which creates a distinct lighting<br />

pattern.<br />

Flash-Sync Speeds. If using a<br />

focal-plane shutter as found in 35mm<br />

SLRs, you have an X-sync shutter<br />

speed setting. You cannot use flash and<br />

employ a shutter speed faster than the<br />

X-sync speed. Otherwise, your files or<br />

negatives will be only half exposed.<br />

You can, however, use any shutter<br />

speed slower than the X-sync speed.<br />

Your strobe will fire in synchronization<br />

with the shutter, and the longer shutter<br />

speed will build up the ambient<br />

light exposure. <strong>The</strong> latest generation<br />

<strong>of</strong> DSLRs, like the Nikon D1X and<br />

Canon EOS 1-Ds, use flash-sync shutter<br />

speeds <strong>of</strong> 1/500 second, making daylight<br />

flash sync at almost any aperture<br />

possible.<br />

Straight Flash. On-camera flash<br />

should be avoided altogether for making<br />

wedding portraits—except as a fillin<br />

source. Straight flash is too harsh<br />

and flat and it produces no roundness<br />

or contouring. Since light fall<strong>of</strong>f is extreme,<br />

it produces cavernous black<br />

backgrounds—unless the shutter is left<br />

open for a longer time to expose the<br />

ambient room light.<br />

When you diffuse on-camera flash,<br />

you get a reasonably s<strong>of</strong>t frontal lighting.<br />

While diffused flash is still a flat<br />

lighting and frontal in nature, the s<strong>of</strong>tness<br />

<strong>of</strong> the light produces much better<br />

contouring than direct, undiffused<br />

flash. Lumiquest <strong>of</strong>fers devices like the Pocket Bouncer,<br />

which redirects light at a 90-degree angle from the flash to<br />

s<strong>of</strong>ten the quality <strong>of</strong> light and distribute it over a wider<br />

area. <strong>The</strong>re are also frosted acetate caps that fit over the<br />

flash reflector to s<strong>of</strong>ten the direct flash and these can be effective<br />

as well. Most <strong>of</strong> these accessories can be used with<br />

your flash in auto or TTL mode, making exposure calculation<br />

effortless.<br />

One <strong>of</strong> the best facets <strong>of</strong> shooting digitally is the ability to shoot virtually anywhere under almost<br />

any lighting situation. Both <strong>of</strong> these shots are by Anthony Cava and were made with a<br />

Nikon D100 at exposures <strong>of</strong> 1/320 second at f/1.7. In the image <strong>of</strong> the bride, Anthony set the<br />

white balance for shade so the tungsten lights would go yellow-red. In the shot <strong>of</strong> the groom on<br />

the train, he set the white balance for tungsten, even though there was a mix <strong>of</strong> tungsten, fluorescent,<br />

and daylight. In each instance he could have color corrected the scene but opted for a<br />

more creative approach to the color balance.<br />

OUTDOOR AND MIXED LIGHTING 73

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