Power Book 2018

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( OPINION ) THE DEATH OF THE HAIRCUT What does the continued trend for long hair mean for salon businesses? asks Michael Van Clarke “MY PRIMARY FOCUS FOR almost 40 years has been the haircut and, in that time, I’ve developed a unique method to get the very best from any hair – The Diamond Dry Cut. It’s allowed me to charge 10-times the industry average and keep clients happily returning. More than 100 clients have stayed with me for more than 35 years. Across those decades, I’ve watched the ebb and flow of different industry fashions and training methods, and seen the core training around cutting slowly diluted. “Starting in the ’50s, Raymond (Mr. Teasie Weasie), then Vidal Sassoon and Leonard, initiated a wave of excitement, with Sassoon’s revolution putting the haircut at the centre of a new monthly lifestyle routine in exchange for the weekly roller set. But in the mainstream of the industry, there was a lack of investment and development in the training of this core service beyond what Sassoon had established. As demand for new styles and shapes widened in the post hippy-era, the industry did not develop cutting techniques to reliably give clients the full range of shapes on offer. Most clients still got a blueprint for one of a limited range of haircuts the stylists had been taught. “Flat bobs became ‘deconstructed’, with thinning scissors, point cutting or razors; shapes were promoted as being ‘disconnected’. Connected shapes were never talked about! But the industry was still leaning very heavily on the simple bob shapes and basic techniques that Sassoon established. The product revolution of the ’80s gave the industry more time as poor haircuts could be scrunched, dishevelled or bed-haired to give a new look, but one that the client found very hard to repeat at home. Long hair usually became a long A-line bob. Layers were mocked up out of another mid-length bob sitting on top and then chopped into to disguise the steps. It wasn’t proper layering... flat irons came to the rescue next in the ’90s as the extreme flattening effect could iron out distortions of poor haircuts. “Salon chains started discounting aggressively to lure clients on a merry-go-round of chase-the-voucher. Real average charges began to tumble. Salon income for services flat-lined. Desperate for income, salons built up other streams from retail, colour and beauty. Long hair services like Brazilian blow-drys and hair extensions fed the trend for clients trying to avoid or delay haircuts. The booming electricals market helped them with homecare. Most cutting now has polarised to the extremes of simple long cuts or short barbering. There is less to be found in the middle, and capabilities are diminishing. If the money is coming in through other streams, does it matter? I think it does. “The limitless range of shapes that hair can hold requires a sculptural precision that only comes from seeing and working with hair in three dimensions. Almost all cutting training nowadays derives from simplistic methods of treating hair as a two-dimensional material, which it essentially is when wet and flat dried into bobs. While it saves costs and training time, it’s no longer fit for purpose. For what should be an incredibly skilled and valuable service, mainstream hairdressers earn a pittance across a short career span. The industry needs to rethink how it delivers training and can no longer rely on outdated methods.” 42 POWER BOOK creativeheadmag.com
CREATIVE HEAD EDUCATION "You all ready for this?" e ducation OUR FEATURED ARTIST IN MAY IS SAM BURNETT He’s the current Most Wanted Hair Trend winner, founder of London’s gorgeous Hare & Bone and the star of The Coterie In Session… now Sam is our man to share his world of inspiration for your delectation this May! e ducation HEAD ONLINE NOW! CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/EDUCATION
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