Zermatt Magazin 2015

Persönlichkeit aus Zermatt | Zermatt Magazin 11
Matterhorn and its prehistory from
the perspective of the mountain
guides.
What does the future of
mountain climbing look like?
Famous four thousand meter peaks
like the Matterhorn, Monte Rosa
and the Weisshorn remain very popular.
But the demand for the major
classic tours is declining since
sports climbing has become enormously
popular in the past thirty
years or so. I am a little concerned
that the mountain regions are being
taken over by mass tourism. For
example, it bothers me when 10 or
more guests tour with just a single
mountain guide.
about the history of the Zermatt
Mountain Guide Association and
the first ascent of the Matterhorn.
The anniversary activities will make
Zermatt and the Matterhorn even
more famous throughout the world.
In addition to the official anniversary
book, a large number of publications,
media articles, Internet contributions
and films are being produced.
One highpoint will be the documentary
film by Köbi Julen and
Wilhelm Zurbrügg entitled “Focus
Matterhorn – Under the Spell of
the Mountain”. It will accompany
two rope teams during the ascent
and descent of the mountain (more
information at: www.focus-matterhorn.ch).
Furthermore, Swiss Television (SFR)
is producing a documentary film
about the first ascent of the Matterhorn
with tales that have been
handed down and previously little
known facts. In this film, mountain
guides visit the key points of the
Matterhorn route used on 14 July
1865 together with a descendent of
Douglas Robert Hadow, who died
on the mountain. I explain the
background of the dramatic ascent
to him during a conversation in
the film.
You will soon also be publishing a
book?
I have conducted my own research
and managed the historical archives
of the Mountain Guides Association.
To preserve this material for
future generations, we intend to
publish a book in 2015. In it I will
also talk about the first ascent of the
In the service of alpinism
How are things developing
in the winter season?
Many winter guest are increasingly
turning away from pure piste skiing.
They ski outside the marked and
prepared routes. Some very good
skiers want challenging tour programmes
offering a great deal of adventure.
They also seek thrills with
extreme descents down steep
slopes. These demands of today’s
guests place interesting challenges
on mountain guides. They have to
provide new possibilities that offer
plenty of action and nevertheless
ensure the greatest possible level of
safety.
zm
Dr. Herman Biner received the Swiss mountain guide license in 1974. In
the years 1980 to 1986 and from 1993 to 1996, he was president of the
Zermatt Mountain Guides Association. He was involved in rescue missions
for 17 years. As president, he led the Swiss Mountain Guides Association
from 1987 to 1991. He was also active in mountain guide training for fifteen
years and ultimately the technical head in Valais. Hermann Biner was called
up to the international association in 2007, in which 23 nations around the
world are members. He was initially vice president and then president until
2012. He regularly contributes his wide-ranging experience and expertise
in technical and historical matters to specialist articles and book projects.
Hermann Biner was president of the organisation committee to celebrate
the 125th anniversary of the first ascent of the Matterhorn in 1990.