Freshwater

200
Part III: Water, Chemicals, and Plants
11. Put the thermometer on the tank.
Hang a hanging thermometer on the rim of the tank or stick a floating
thermometer in one corner of the tank. If you have a stick-on thermometer,
stick it on to the outside of the glass. We like to place these on the
side of the tank in one corner so that they do take away from the front
view.
12. Add decorations.
Add rocks, driftwood, and other decorations.
13. Fill the aquarium.
Add water until the aquarium water is at the same level as the bottom
edge of the aquarium frame that wraps around the top of the glass.
14. Add dechlorinator to the water.
Follow the instructions on the product for the correct amount.
15. Plug in all the equipment and set the heater to the correct temperature
for the fish and plants you are going to purchase.
Add water from the tank to the powerfilter to prime it if necessary.
16. Check the pH.
Use a test kit to test the pH of the water. If it is okay continue on. If not
adjust it until it is correct.
17. Put the hood on top of the tank.
18. Add lighting if you have strip lighting separate from a hood or top
glass.
Place the light on top of the tank and plug it in.
19. Let the aquarium run for 24–48 hours.
20. Do a pH and temperature check and then adjust as needed.
21. Add live plants.
Bury plant roots in the gravel. Place taller plants in the back and shorter
plants up front. You may have to take a little water out of the tank so
that it doesn’t flow over while you are planting.
22. Put in your starter fish.
Just a few small ones! Don’t go overboard!
There you have it in a nutshell. Remember that you must monitor your water
conditions daily (using test kits you buy at aquariums shops) to keep an eye
on ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels until the tank has finished cycling. You
can start to slowly add more fish after the chemical levels stabilize and check
the conditions once a week thereafter. Be patient during this process!