05.04.2013 Views

Freshwater

Freshwater

Freshwater

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

Create successful ePaper yourself

Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.

Strobe lights generally have a flash duration of 1 ⁄1500 of a second and are very<br />

effective in stopping action if you are photographing a fast-swimming fish in a<br />

large tank that isn’t equipped with restraining glass. (A restraining glass is an<br />

inserted piece of glass that is used in small photo tanks, usually 2–5 gallons,<br />

to gently pin the fish against the aquarium glass so that it will not move while<br />

its picture is being taken.) Strobe lights are usually powered either by electricity<br />

or rechargeable cadmium batteries.<br />

If the subject of your photo session is a very dark fish, move the lighting<br />

closer to the tank to compensate. On the other hand, if the fish is white or<br />

of a very light complexion, move the lighting back from the subject.<br />

If your pictures are too dark or too light, try adjusting the lighting before<br />

you start messing around with lens settings. For optimal results, take a series<br />

of pictures as you slowly adjust your lighting from near to far. You’ll be<br />

rewarded with at least one picture with the best lighting possible. A series of<br />

photos can be valuable to your future shots, too. You can sit down and review<br />

different lighting angles and distances to see what worked. If you are using a<br />

digital camera, you will be able to get a good idea of how the lighting is going<br />

to work by using the LCD screen without wasting film. You simply follow the<br />

camera’s instructions for erasing bad shots from the memory device.<br />

Red-eye (also known as vampire syndrome,) is the common name for reflections<br />

caused by lighting placed very close to the subject. You can avoid it by<br />

working with the light adjustments mention earlier in this section. For digital<br />

shots, you can use image-manipulation software to remove most red-eye<br />

problems.<br />

Another option is to aim your flash or strobes up at a mirror or white card<br />

suspended above the tank. The light reflects off the mirror or card and<br />

bounces back onto the subject, creating a softer look. This method is popular<br />

for delicate-looking species, such as angelfish and other long-finned tropicals.<br />

Make sure that the mirror and cards you use are clean and free of streaks.<br />

If you’re a fairly serious photographer, you can purchase a photographic<br />

umbrella to diffuse light. The manager of your local photo shop can make<br />

sure you get the proper piece of equipment for the job. Remember that a<br />

bounced flash loses up to half of its original intensity, so adjust your calculated<br />

exposure accordingly.<br />

Focusing Techniques<br />

Chapter 21: Recording Data and Photographing Fish<br />

The focus of a camera is determined by the aperture, or opening, of the lens,<br />

which decreases as the size of the image increases. The aperture itself is a<br />

hole in the lens which regulates the amount of light striking the film. The<br />

275

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!