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274<br />

Part IV: Breeding and Other Fun Stuff<br />

Lighting Techniques<br />

The main hood lights on an aquarium usually do not provide sufficient lighting<br />

to take good photos. If your tank has fluorescent lamps, you may end up<br />

with a green cast on your finished pictures; if you use tungsten lamps, an<br />

orange cast may appear. You’re much better off using electronic flash or<br />

strobe units that provide proper lighting and freeze motion.<br />

Ideally, you place your photography tank (see later in this chapter for more<br />

on photography tanks) in natural sunlight, which far exceeds artificial lighting<br />

in terms of color, shadow, and mood. The disadvantage of natural lighting<br />

is that the direct sunlight can quickly heat up the water in a small tank to<br />

lethal levels and turn your fish into a broiled entrees. Take great care to<br />

ensure that the water remains cool until you’re ready to start the photography<br />

session, and that you don’t leave them in direct sunlight for too long. A<br />

large, thick towel to cover the entire tank and block out the heavy sunlight is<br />

a great tool to have handy if you need to take a short break.<br />

Another factor to take into consideration is that the sunlight two hours after<br />

sunrise and two hours before sunset is generally discolored and should be<br />

avoided. Photos taken in natural sunlight during these times tend to have a<br />

yellowish cast unless you use special filters. It is much better to take photos<br />

in natural sunlight during the late morning or early afternoon hours when the<br />

sun is high in the sky.<br />

In recent years, large flood lights have become quite popular in fish photography.<br />

Caution is advised when using these lights as they have the potential to<br />

quickly heat water. Always check the heat intensity of these floodlights<br />

before using them.<br />

If you’re using one strobe light, direct it at the tank from a 45-degree angle<br />

near the top of the aquarium. If you use two strobe lights, place them at the<br />

same angle on opposite sides of the tank.<br />

The 45-degree angle offers these advantages:<br />

Shadows appear below the fish and give your photos a natural look.<br />

These shadows also possess a softer tone than those in photos using<br />

straight-on lighting and are more appealing to the eye.<br />

You avoid flash reflection off the glass, which can ruin an otherwise<br />

good shot. Another method to avoid excess reflection is to wrap a<br />

black-cardboard tube around the lens on your camera. This tube is<br />

known as a mask.

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