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Konrad and Alexandra (pdf) - Rolf Gross

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the dramatic Daryan Gorge, the Porta Caspiae of the Ancients. Since prehistoric times people<br />

have migrated through this narrow defile <strong>and</strong> over the Pass of the Cross. Another name for<br />

these gorges was the ‘Gates of the Alani,’ <strong>and</strong> in fact, to this day the Osseti, the remains of the<br />

Gothic tribes, occupy these remote valleys. They speak an ancient Indo-European language."<br />

They crossed a bridge to a posting station in an old fort under an overhanging rock.<br />

Local tribesmen in heavy shepherds’ cloaks, armed with silver daggers <strong>and</strong> front-loading guns<br />

loitered around the station. Surprised, <strong>Konrad</strong> commented upon their blue eyes.<br />

"Oh, yes," Leist said with a laugh, "these are the famous ‘Blue Eyes of the Mountain<br />

Georgians’. Ethnically they are Osseti not Georgians, but they have mixed with the Georgians<br />

with beguiling results: imagine a statuesque woman with black hair <strong>and</strong> these unreal, deepblue<br />

eyes!"<br />

Hardly enough space remained for the road next to the roaring river in the canyon. The<br />

road got steeper, <strong>and</strong> the horses labored hard.<br />

Unexpectedly a side valley opened on the end of which Mt. Kazbeg majestically towered<br />

over a craggy glacier.<br />

At the end of the gorges the river fanned out across a rock-strewn floodplain where<br />

thous<strong>and</strong>s of sheep grazed in the sparse grass along its banks. A group of wild shepherds<br />

squatted next to a two-wheeled cart <strong>and</strong> a smoking fire. In their high, conical, fur hats <strong>and</strong> dirty,<br />

long-haired, sheepskin coats, their black, bearded faces <strong>and</strong> tousled, matted hair looked<br />

medieval. Barking <strong>and</strong> snapping, the scrawny sheep dogs attacked the coach. The horses<br />

reared, <strong>and</strong> the driver, cursing in Russian, furiously whipped at the dogs, while the shepherds<br />

watched idly, laughing <strong>and</strong> shouting obscenities<br />

Mount Kazbeg from the village of Kazbegi, 1890s.(Ermakov/Wiki)<br />

Soon they were surrounded by a sea of wooly sheep. Led by stinking, evil-eyed billy<br />

11

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