Jean Rivard - University of British Columbia

Grève
evening. They had made it their rule to drink no alcoholic beverages during the
"intolerable heat" of the day. The next morning, they came near to being
swamped by a steamer, but they took it all in good humour, enjoying the
"refreshment." Past the bend in the Rhine at Boppard, the river-bed became so
narrow between the mountains that they exchanged greetings with the people
walking the towpaths and walkways. Often they landed at some pleasing spot
and walked barefoot to see the sights. However, they viewed St. Goar and the
Loreley only from their boats. "The heat was so intense," wrote Thiel, that "I
tucked a white handkerchief under my cap to protect my neck and wrapped my
legs ¡n pieces of white cloth." Only "Hanne and Nixe"—Lomberg and Grève—
"who had rowed the most in the course of this summer and had brought some
'colour' to this trip" needed no protection. They made it their rule to slow down
at riverside garden restaurants about an hour before sunset, to have waiters
hand them glasses of beer while they remained in their boat. There were small
adventures. Beyond Oberwesel they got caught in a cable tied to a boat anchored
well out in the river, losing their flag-pole in the process. One morning, having
walked through the city gate of Bacharach to their boat, they "wiped the dew off
the boat and the oars, stowed away their gear" and continued upstream. However,
hardly had they "warmed up when they had to get back into the water; and while
'Nixe', a short way past the town, steered around a mole that extended into the
Rhine and along which the water raced mightily downstream, we were suddenly
stuck on a submerged rock in front of the mole. In an instant, the stream gripped
the bow-end and threw it into the current. The boat took a courteous bow to larboard,
and there was an audible crack. Immediately we hurried overboard, and
the boat was saved; we had drifted quite a distance when we finally found ourselves,
dripping, back in the boat." That evening they landed at Kostheim, near
the confluence of the Rhein and Main rivers. "We sent our quartermaster 'Nixe'
out as a scout, whom Mother Nature has equipped with such irregular bodily
height that he cannot easily get lost. He did not come back until after we had
brought the boat to safety and were busy teaching the grown youths of the village,
who had helped carry the boat, the basic rules of beer consumption. Only
after having walked about for a long time had he been able to find quarters, for
the next day there was to be a Kirmes (fair). So we spent the evening with pork
sausages and wine in large 5/10 glasses directly from the barrel—a new era had
begun." The next day, a Sunday, they reached Frankfurt [which Grève knew well
from two former races] and were spectators at a boat-race, resting for a while in
the shade of huge old trees, at the invitation of a friendly local club. In the
evening they landed at Rumpenheim without having to worry about a place for
the night. '"Nixe" had again proven "his astonishingly fine nose, for the stout
landlady with whom we stayed made an extremely reliable impression."
They then leisurely proceeded up the River Main, past the wooded hills of the
legendary Spessart forest to Aschaffenburg. This was old Roman border country.
One evening, probably again thanks to "Nixe's fine nose" they spent the night in
a picturesque small one-room inn merely "lit by a small oil lamp." The landlady
fixed beds of straw for them on the dance floor. On a rainy afternoon, they
reached the ancient city of Miltenberg. They were so wet that they decided to
stay and have their things "dried in the village baker's oven." For a student of
28