Cosmetic Surgery and Beauty Magazine #67

skin
What foods should be avoided for sensitive skin and rosacea?
• Sugar
• Refined carbohydrates (particularly
white bread, rice and pasta)
• Alcohol
• Trans fats, hydrogenated fats and animal fats that are
solid at room temperature
• Spicy foods
• Caffeinated drinks
• Over consumption of dairy products
• Excessive wheat, particularly genetically modified
(GM) wheat
• An imbalance between omega-6 and omega-3 fatty
acids – more omega 3s are needed to balance the
omega 6s which can be inflammatory
• Many artificial food additives – MSG flavour enhancer,
sulfites, benzoates, FD&C artificial colours
Contact irritation and product
sensitivity vs skin allergy
Contact irritants, as distinct from allergens, in skincare
products are the cause of most common skin reactions. Due
to the sheer number of products in contact with the skin each
day, it is often difficult to determine exactly which product may
be causing irritation. The most common contact irritant is
artificial fragrance.
If you are sensitive to an ingredient in a particular skincare
product, it is advisable to eliminate all skincare products until
the irritation has cleared. Gradually introduce one product
at a time over several days until you discover exactly which
product is causing the contact irritation. You may also apply
the suspect irritant to a small area of the skin such as the
side of the neck and check for irritation. Do not apply the
potential irritant if you’ve had an allergic reaction. Allergic
reactions should be seen by a dermatologist for diagnosis
and treatment.
Food intolerance vs food allergy
Many people may be lactose intolerant, gluten intolerant and
even coeliac. These conditions are dietary and not related
to application of these ingredients on the skin. It is therefore
acceptable to apply products containing these ingredients to
the skin provided they are not ingested or present in lip and
dental products.
Some individuals may suffer from food allergy. This is very
different from food intolerance. In this case, any skincare
product containing the allergen must be avoided as penetration
may cause a severe allergic reaction. The client must read the
ingredient labels to ensure the product is free of their specific
allergens. If you have a nut allergy, for example, all nut and
nut-derived oils should be avoided in skincare products.
Topical skin detox
If you’ve had a severe skin reaction to an ingredient, it may
be necessary to implement a two-week topical skin detox.
This involves only using pure glycerin (as a twice-daily wipe
on/rinse off cleanser) and castor oil (used sparingly as a day
and night moisturiser) for two weeks. These ingredients are
highly unlikely to cause an adverse reaction and will still enable
the skin to be cleansed and hydrated during the detox phase.
Following the detox, introduce one new product every few
days and monitor your skin’s tolerance.
What cosmeceutical
ingredients are
recommended
for sensitive skin?
Keep the daily routine simple. If you’re commencing
a new skincare regimen, I suggest you introduce one
product at a time to ensure you can tolerate each
product. If you have sensitive skin, use products that
have a low irritancy profile and that soothe, calm and
repair damaged and vulnerable skin. These include:
• Niacinamide/Vitamin B3 – This is an essential
ingredient to help repair the skin barrier and
reduce irritation
• Anti-irritant botanical extracts such as aloe vera,
alpha bisabolol, allantoin, colloidal oatmeal, beta
glucan and Canadian willowherb
• Certain essential oils in low levels such as
chamomile and lavender
• Anti-inflammatory non-comedogenic oils such as
shea butter, olive squalene, seabuckthorn oil and
castor oil (PEG free)
• Zinc oxide for broad spectrum sun protection and
reducing redness
• Opt for mineral makeup with high levels of
zinc oxide
• Salicylic acid (low dose) – salicylic acid is actually
an anti-inflammatory ingredient, however ensure
there is no allergy to salicylates
• Polyphenols – this is an antioxidant found in green
tea, white tea and tomato skin extracts
• Caffeine (low dose topical application) – in low
doses this anti-inflammatory is able to constrict
blood vessels and minimise the appearance of
facial redness and rosacea
There is no doubt that treating sensitive skin
is both challenging and complex. You are best
advised to see a dermatologist to isolate an allergen
or specific skin irritant. However, keeping your skin
routine simple, including anti-irritant ingredients
and avoiding potential skin irritants can significantly
improve sensitive skin and rosacea. csbm
www.cosbeauty.com.au 95