Complete (13 MB) - Chris Alston's Chassisworks

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Installing BrakesThe 11 3/4 inch vented rotors aredirectional. The “P” machined on the insideidentifies the passenger side rotor. There isa "D" on the driver side rotor.These brakes require at least a 15” diameterwheel; however, even some 15” wheels maynot clear. Verify you have at least 1/4” ofwheel clearance from all brake components.The billet aluminum hubs have threadedstud-mounting holes for both 4 1/2 and 4 3/4inch bolt circles.Choose the bolt circle that matches yourwheels and chase the threads with a 1/2-20tap.After chasing the threads, it is a good idea toblow them out with an air hose making sureno debris remains in the holes.Set the rotor over the backside of the billethub. The larger bearing race snout on thehub is the backside. Line up the bolt circleson the hub and the rotor.#917701 Page 43
Add a drop of Loctite to the threads, upnear the shoulder and insert the studsthrough the proper series of holes. Theprovided 12-point bolts are 2 1/4 incheslong. If you need a longer wheel stud forthicker wheels, 3-inch long studs areavailable from <strong>Chassisworks</strong>.Tighten the studs from the backside of theassembly. You're ready to install the innerwheel bearing and seal.The bearing races are pressed in the billethub from the factory. You must pack thewheel bearing before installing it. In thephoto, a wheel-bearing packer is shown. Ifyou do not have one available, hand packingthe bearing is okay. If you are unsure howto pack the bearing, refer to an auto repairmanual for assistance.#917701 Page 44
Page 1: READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY AN
Page 5 and 6: DISCLAIMER OF WARRANTYPurchasers re
Page 7 and 8: Installing SuspensionIn this sectio
Page 9 and 10: The balljoint is then screwed into
Page 11 and 12: Thread the balljoint in as far as p
Page 16 and 17: A set screw is used to lock the A-a
Page 19: Place the spindle over the lower ba
Page 22: Now repeat the procedure for the ot
Page 26: Install the tie rod end in the stee
Page 30 and 31: Next, set the bar level and tighten
Page 32 and 33: Next, you can final assemble the ti
Page 34 and 35: The caps are held in place with the
Page 36 and 37: With both bushings on the bar, brin
Page 38 and 39: Next, slide the link eyebolt onto t
Page 40 and 41: Use the T-handle Allen wrench to ti
Page 42 and 43: Next, turn the shock over and tight
Page 46 and 47: After the bearing is packed, drop i
Page 48 and 49: After the wheel bearings are tight,
Page 50 and 51: Finally, bolt your wheel and tire o
Page 52 and 53: Attach the tab to the frame rail wi
Page 54 and 55: You can now final tighten the brake
Page 56 and 57: Installation of a manual transmissi
Page 58 and 59: Use the stainless steel 3/8-16 x 1
Page 60 and 61: To install clutch linkage, bolt the
Page 62 and 63: These two photos show an engine and
Page 64 and 65: This is a view of the firewall befo
Page 66 and 67: Disconnect the steering column from
Page 68 and 69: Disconnect the brake line clamp by
Page 70 and 71: Remove the bolts that attach the ra
Page 72 and 73: Only slide the frame forward enough
Page 74 and 75: This photo shows the driver side fr
Page 76 and 77: The alignment pins slide up through
Page 78 and 79: Jack the clip up with the frame on
Page 80 and 81: The transmission crossmember isdesi
Page 82 and 83: After all dimensions verify, tighte
Page 84 and 85: Bend the rear brake line under the
Page 86 and 87: The first step to installing the st
Page 88 and 89: To install the 3/4” DD shaft, you
Page 90 and 91: Use a pair of needle nose pliers to
Page 92 and 93: Hold a 1x2 board across the top of
Page 94 and 95:
After all of the rivets with backin
Page 96 and 97:
It is best to install the headers i
Page 98 and 99:
This is the driver side front leaf
Page 100 and 101:
You will need two people for this s
Page 102 and 103:
Remove the door sill plates to get
Page 104 and 105:
Reattach the shock absorber, then m
Page 106:
WARRANTY NOTICE:There are NO WARRAN
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Complete (13 MB) - Chris Alston's Chassisworks

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