Complete (13 MB) - Chris Alston's Chassisworks

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To install the 3/4” DD shaft, you will have toremove the rack clamps to push the rackforward. Use a 1/4” drill to make a dimpleon the 3/4” DD shaft for the set screws.Repeat the dimple procedure for the top u-joint. Do not drill the dimple so deep that thedrill starts to make a 1/4” hole.The final step after the shaft has beeninstalled, is to verify that with the steeringwheel level, the wheels point straight ahead.Rotate the rack so the wheels point straightahead. Follow the procedure used whenaligning the front end. Level the steeringwheel. Slide the splined u-joint onto the rackshaft. Reinstall the rack clamps. Because therack has 36 teeth, the steering wheel can onlybe positioned every 10 degrees. If you wantperfect alignment, you can adjust the centerposition of the shaft by turning 1 tie rod in andthe other out. Make sure you turn them equalamounts and in the direction that requires theleast rotation. If you do this, be sure to verifythe front-end alignment for toe-in.#917701 Page 87
This is a photo of the completed installation.Wire the column lever to the position itwould be in park or the key mechanismwon’t function properly. Paint the U-jointsand steering column shaft to prevent rusting.Installing Fender FlapsThe <strong>Chassisworks</strong> splash flaps replace thefactory rubber flaps.Use a flat blade screw driver and hammer toopen up the staples.#917701 Page 88
Page 1:
READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY AN
Page 5 and 6:
DISCLAIMER OF WARRANTYPurchasers re
Page 7 and 8:
Installing SuspensionIn this sectio
Page 9 and 10:
The balljoint is then screwed into
Page 11 and 12:
Thread the balljoint in as far as p
Page 16 and 17:
A set screw is used to lock the A-a
Page 19:
Place the spindle over the lower ba
Page 22:
Now repeat the procedure for the ot
Page 26:
Install the tie rod end in the stee
Page 30 and 31:
Next, set the bar level and tighten
Page 32 and 33:
Next, you can final assemble the ti
Page 34 and 35:
The caps are held in place with the
Page 36 and 37:
With both bushings on the bar, brin
Page 38 and 39: Next, slide the link eyebolt onto t
Page 40 and 41: Use the T-handle Allen wrench to ti
Page 42 and 43: Next, turn the shock over and tight
Page 44 and 45: Installing BrakesThe 11 3/4 inch ve
Page 46 and 47: After the bearing is packed, drop i
Page 48 and 49: After the wheel bearings are tight,
Page 50 and 51: Finally, bolt your wheel and tire o
Page 52 and 53: Attach the tab to the frame rail wi
Page 54 and 55: You can now final tighten the brake
Page 56 and 57: Installation of a manual transmissi
Page 58 and 59: Use the stainless steel 3/8-16 x 1
Page 60 and 61: To install clutch linkage, bolt the
Page 62 and 63: These two photos show an engine and
Page 64 and 65: This is a view of the firewall befo
Page 66 and 67: Disconnect the steering column from
Page 68 and 69: Disconnect the brake line clamp by
Page 70 and 71: Remove the bolts that attach the ra
Page 72 and 73: Only slide the frame forward enough
Page 74 and 75: This photo shows the driver side fr
Page 76 and 77: The alignment pins slide up through
Page 78 and 79: Jack the clip up with the frame on
Page 80 and 81: The transmission crossmember isdesi
Page 82 and 83: After all dimensions verify, tighte
Page 84 and 85: Bend the rear brake line under the
Page 86 and 87: The first step to installing the st
Page 90 and 91: Use a pair of needle nose pliers to
Page 92 and 93: Hold a 1x2 board across the top of
Page 94 and 95: After all of the rivets with backin
Page 96 and 97: It is best to install the headers i
Page 98 and 99: This is the driver side front leaf
Page 100 and 101: You will need two people for this s
Page 102 and 103: Remove the door sill plates to get
Page 104 and 105: Reattach the shock absorber, then m
Page 106: WARRANTY NOTICE:There are NO WARRAN
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Complete (13 MB) - Chris Alston's Chassisworks

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