…Krom, he who has been born in your mountains, grown old on yourpeaks, and been buried in your earth, for what does he need paradise?(Kromnean folksong)In late <strong>20</strong>06, <strong>Road</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Emmaus</strong> spent a week in Thessalonica, Greece, in the company of GeorgeAndreadis, whose relatives and friends were among the last cryp<strong>to</strong>-Christians of Turkey. In thefirst of an as<strong>to</strong>nishing two-part series, George relates the his<strong>to</strong>ry of Orthodox Greeks who,appearing outwardly as Ot<strong>to</strong>man Muslims, kept their faith alive through two centuries of catacombexistence. The founder of Interplan, an international trust company, George has publishedover forty books and articles on the his<strong>to</strong>ry of the Black Sea Coast and its GreekChristian population. He still lives in Kalamaria, the Pontic Greek refugee neighborhood wherehe was born. <strong>Road</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Emmaus</strong> is the first English-language journal <strong>to</strong> feature his work.The BeginningFAITH UNSEEN:THE CRYPTO-CHRISTIANSOF PONTUSPart IBy George AndreadisThis s<strong>to</strong>ry begins with the father of my grandmother’s great-grandmother,who was born in Varenou, in Pontus, near the Black Sea coast, on February2, 1760. He was the seventh child of a poor farmer’s family who went on <strong>to</strong>play a dramatically important role in the lives and destinies of thousands offellow-villagers from Varenou and the villages around Kromni. I learned ofhim and his descendants from my grandmother, Aphrodite Andreadou(born Grammatikopoulou), who was also born in Varenou and had heardthe s<strong>to</strong>ries from her own grandmother, his granddaughter. Aphrodite’smemory was phenomenal. For 18 years, I listened as she recited our familyhis<strong>to</strong>ry, first with pleasure as a child, and later, with increasing awe andunderstanding. Of her great-great grandfather, she would say, “He wasborn in Varenou on Koundour (February) 2, the day of the Presentation inthe Temple, and died of achparagma (fright) on the day of the Holy Spirit.When he died, he was 83 years old.”My grandmother Aphrodite never said an untrue word. When we pressedher for details or explanations, instead of adding something <strong>to</strong> make thes<strong>to</strong>ry more interesting or giving possible reasons, she would only answer, “Idon’t know. That was how it was when I was born.” She could neither readOpposite: Bot<strong>to</strong>m right: Aphrodite Andreadou (+ 1955), grandmother of George Andreadisand great-great-granddaughter of Mullah Molasleyman. Bot<strong>to</strong>m left: Maria EphtichidouZade, Aphrodite’s mother and Gülbahar’s granddaughter (in-law). Top left <strong>to</strong> right:Aphrodite’s sisters, Irene and Sophia, with a young niece.3
<strong>Road</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Emmaus</strong> Vol. VIII, <strong>No</strong>. 4 (#31)FAITH UNSEENnor write, nor did she understand chronological dating. She dated as theancient Greeks, who referred <strong>to</strong> the events of a reigning king, the number ofthe Olympiad, or a great catastrophe. For instance, when my father wouldsay that a certain woman was born in 1914, my grandmother would reply, “Idon’t understand what that means, but she is 40 years old.” My fatherwould argue, “But if she is 40 years old, that means she was born in 1914.”“I don’t know about that, but she was born the second year after the Turkishinvasion of Batum, during the typhus epidemic.” Where did my grandmotherlearn this ancient Greek system of dating? It was tradition. “It waswhat we have always done.”And this is how we arrived at the year of the death of my grandmother’sgreat-great grandfather. We knew that he died at 83 years old, and that hisdaughter, my grandmother’s great-grandmother, was 59 that year. Goingback, we calculated that he had died in 1843, which fit precisely with thenames of the local rulers and the events that my grandmother described.When my father and I, as well as professional his<strong>to</strong>rians, have workedbackwards <strong>to</strong> verify the dates of the events she narrated, Aphrodite wasalways right. I say this <strong>to</strong> pass on my faith in the his<strong>to</strong>rical accuracy ofeverything that she <strong>to</strong>ld me. In the following account, although calendardates and general his<strong>to</strong>rical and political events are my own research, thedetails of Kromnean cryp<strong>to</strong>-Christian life and cus<strong>to</strong>ms are from my grandmotherand from Fr. Nicholas Economides of the Church of Metamorphosi(Transfiguration) of Kalamaria, Thessalonica, who was also of Pontiandescent, and who <strong>to</strong>ld me much about the cryp<strong>to</strong>-Christians. My grandmotherdid not have this larger his<strong>to</strong>rical view. She knew nothing about theoppression that had caused the Christians <strong>to</strong> conceal themselves. She wouldonly reply, “We were born in<strong>to</strong> this. We were thus, and we lived so…”My family was from Pontus, a region on the Black Sea coast that hadChristian inhabitants even before Emperor Constantine the Great legalizedChristianity in 313. After Constantine, the Christians lived in peace foralmost <strong>20</strong>0 years until the early sixth century, when Byzantine EmperorsJustin I and Justinian I came in<strong>to</strong> conflict with the kings of Persia, Kavad Iand Khosro (Chosroes) I. There were fierce battles in the area of Trebizond(modern-day Trabzon) and many of the local people <strong>to</strong>ok refuge in themountainous area of Kromni, building their homes on the tall forested cliffs(in Greek, Kremos), away from the Persian raids. These people were calledKromet, or Kremet, or more recently, Kromnaioi [Kromneans]. During theseventh-century reign of Emperor Heraclius (610-641), the ByzantineEmpire was divided in<strong>to</strong> administrative units called themes and Pontus fellin<strong>to</strong> the 21st theme, the prefecture of Chaldia.Under the Byzantine Empire of the Comnenes, the Kromneans heavilyfortified the area. Although rugged and isolated, Kromni was in the pathwayof Mongol raiders who frequently attacked Trebizond. Later, Armeniansinvaded the terri<strong>to</strong>ry, killing off whole generations until only a small remnantsurvived.For centuries, Pontus was isolated by its 700-mile chain of <strong>to</strong>wering peaksand river-fed chasms, threaded with narrow muddy tracks on which, evennow, it is easy <strong>to</strong> lose one’s way in the dense forests of black pine and impenetrablealpine mist. As if approaching an island, visi<strong>to</strong>rs sailed <strong>to</strong> Pontusover the Black Sea rather than attempt the unyielding peaks from the south.Beyond the <strong>to</strong>rturous summit of the Zagara pass, and several days journeyby pack animals from Trebizond, the barren low-lying mining region ofKromni was an isolated refuge for cryp<strong>to</strong>-Christians. Eagles and vultures,wild boar, deer, bears and wolves, all made their homes there.The area, of course, was completely Christian, and being on the coast,Trebizond was always the largest city of the area and the episcopal seat. In1461, eight years after the Fall of Constantinople, when the Sultan MehmetFathih (Mehmet the Conqueror) conquered the city, it had 25,000 GreekChristians and over seventy churches. At the conquest, 800 young PontianChristians voluntarily went over <strong>to</strong> Islam. Through inheritances and bequests,the Pontian Church had become a huge land-owner, and it was said that somemonasteries <strong>to</strong>ok advantage of their tenant-farmers. For some of these youngpeople the coming of Mehmet could have seemed like a socialist movement,and they may have thought, “<strong>No</strong>w is the chance for us <strong>to</strong> get ahead.”After the conquest, Sultan Mehmet II left his Christian subjects the right<strong>to</strong> hold religious services, perform marriages, adjudicate court casesbetween Christians, and educate Christian youth, overseen by the patriarchof Constantinople. But there were also many evils: churches were seized andturned in<strong>to</strong> mosques and, for over <strong>20</strong>0 years, the Turks <strong>to</strong>ok the strongestand brightest boys from Christian families in Ot<strong>to</strong>man-occupied Europe andforcibly converted them <strong>to</strong> Islam as Janissaries – an elite military corps dedicated<strong>to</strong> the sultan. 1 Still, Christians played an important role in maintain-1 Janissaries: This form of human “taxation,” occurred mostly in Ot<strong>to</strong>man-occupied Europe from the fall ofConstantinople in 1453 until the mid-17th century, although it was instituted earlier in the conqueredBalkans.45
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