RTE No 20 Interior - Road to Emmaus Journal

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CroaghPatrick:The GloriousClimb ofIreland’s HolyMountainRoad to Emmaus staff first met Michael Gibbons on a pilgrimage to west Ireland with the Friendsof Orthodoxy on Iona in September of 2009. As Michael guided us around the Derry Peninsula in asunny but blustery September, we spent lovely long days tramping dirt roads, skirting peat bogs,and clambering over stony green fields to investigate ancient churches, abandoned cemeteries,and little-known holy wells. Armed with vast archeological and historical knowledge, a livingfaith, and deep love for his country, Michael illumined Ireland’s Christian past. As a member ofthe Croagh Patrick Archaeological Research Team and one of Ireland’s most respected archeologists,he has spoken on Ireland’s heritage at home and abroad, including Oxford, Cambridge,Harvard and the National Geographic Society, and we were delighted when he agreed to spendan evening talking to us about Croagh Patrick, Ireland’s Holy Mountain. As one pilgrim remarked,“To meet Michael Gibbons is to meet Ireland.”“Croagh Patrick is the glorious, singing, laughingclimb of an Ireland young in spirit and truth andenthusiastic in performance.”Patrick KavanaghOpposite: Michael Gibbons.3
Road to Emmaus Vol. XII, No. 2 (#45)CROAGH PATRICKRTE: Michael, will you tell us about yourself, your work and about Connemara’spilgrimage sites.MICHAEL: I’m Michael Gibbons, an archeologist from Connemara, and thisarea of west Ireland has a long pilgrimage tradition that continues to thepresent.Christianity was introduced to Ireland in the fifth century by capturedslaves from the west coast of Britain during the breakup of the Roman Empire.St. Patrick, a Roman citizen from Britain was the most famous of theseIn all, seventeen islands off the Connemara coast have monastic remains.These islands provided an important retreat and a home for hermits awayfrom the bustling world of early Christian Ireland. The Irish name for thetown of Clifden is Clochán, a beehive cell. This may indicate an early Christianassociation with today’s Clifden, but the ancient site has yet to be found.While Croagh Patrick is the most known site, the locals still go on a numberof different pilgrimages, including to the Patrician sites I just mentioned.Mám Ean (meaning “The Pass of the Birds”) is a high pass in the MaumturkMountains (“The Pass of the Wild Boar”). On the 8th of August every year,Croagh Patrick in snow. Courtesy of Michael Gibbons.slaves, and Connemara people frequent two great pilgrimage sites associatedwith him: Mám Ean in the Maumturks and Croagh Patrick. By the earlyseventh century, monks had founded important monasteries on our remoteand rugged islands of Inishark by St. Leo, on High and Omey islands bySt. Fechin, Inis Ní by St. Mathias and on Oilean Mhic Dara by St. Macdara.A major monastery was founded on Inishbofin by St. Colman, a monasticexile from Lindisfarne and Iona, who brought with him numerous Saxonfollowers.Pilgrims in the early morning light. Courtesy Harry Hughes.there is a small local pilgrimage to Mám Ean, attended mostly by mountainpeople who live on the sides of the Maumturks. Further south, where mymother’s family is from is St. MacDara’s Island. MacDara is the most importantlocal saint in Connemara and St. MacDara’s was an island monastery.Every 16th of July, there is a maritime pilgrimage along the south Connemaracoast to this site, where we were brought as children.My first pilgrimage experience as a child was at St. Cailín’s Well (pronouncedCall Een), one of the older pilgrimage sites with a tiny well and an45
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Trebizond (Trabzon) city walls.
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FAITH UNSEENOttoman administrator,
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RTE No 20 Interior - Road to Emmaus Journal

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