Woven Fabrics - Fairchild Books

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seed yarn nub yarn slub yarn bouclé yarn spiral or corkscrew yarn chenille yarn Figure 4.12 Popular types of novelty yarns. surface of the substrate are particularly vulnerable to rubbing action. Novelty yarn fabrics should be avoided in applications where durability and long wear must take precedence over fabric beauty and interesting surface effects. Chenille Yarns Chenille yarns are yarns that have a soft pile protruding from their surface. Their appearance resembles pipe cleaners without the wire. Unlike pipe cleaners, however, chenille yarns are soft, supple, and very flexible. Chenille yarns are made in an unusual manner. The yarn is made by slitting narrow lengths from 1 ⁄8 inch to 1 ⁄4 inch (3.18 millimeters to 6.35 millimeters) of a fabric FABRIC SCIENCE A 80 F Figure 4.13 Chanel garment made of bouclé yarns. that has first been woven especially for this purpose. This fabric is a leno-effect weave (see p. 103) and has a filling of soft, twisted yarns. After the fabric is woven, it is cut lengthwise into narrow strips, each strip becoming a chenille yarn. The crisscrossing leno warp prevents the soft filling from falling out. (See Figure 4.14.) Chenille yarns may be made from any fiber, but most commonly they are made of cotton, wool, rayon, or nylon. Chenille yarns are used in woven fabric to produce soft pilelike effects on bedspreads and other decorative fabrics. Chenille yarns have rather low resistance to abrasion, and their use should be avoided in products that will be subjected to even minimal fabric rubbing. Metallic Yarns A strip of metallic fiber (see p. 56) is also a metallic yarn. Such yarn is flat and ribbonlike rather than round or elliptical in cross-section, as are other yarns. Strips of metallic yarns are usually from 1 ⁄32 inch (0.80 millimeter)
warp yarn Figure 4.14 Making chenille yarn: Filling yarns are cut between each section of warp leno. to 1 ⁄128 inch (0.20 millimeter) wide. These yarns can be supported by loosely twisting one or more fine-filament yarns around them (e.g., two 15-denier nylon yarns). This increases its strength and abrasion resistance. Metallic yarns are mostly used for decorative rather than functional purposes; a wide range of colors and effects is available. Metallic yarns tend to be expensive. Lurex Co., Ltd. is a major metallic yarn manufacturer. Yarn Numbering Systems Yarns are bought and sold by the pound. Knitting mills, for example, purchase their yarn requirements in pounds rather than in yards. Even home knitters purchase yarns in packages sold by ounce or gram weight. Yarn numbering systems are used to express a relationship between a unit length and weight of yarns—either meters per gram or yards per pound. The relationship between unit length and weight also reflects the diameter or thickness of a yarn. This is because a yarn of low weight per unit of length would be finer (thinner) than a yarn with a higher weight per equal unit of length. However, the diameter of the yarn may vary for any given yarn number because of differences in the specific gravity of the fibers from which yarns are made, and because some yarns are highly twisted whereas others have low twist. The terms yarn numbers and yarn sizes are used interchangeably. Despite the words “yarn size,” bear in mind that the size (or number) expresses a relationship between a unit of length and weight, and only a close, but not exact, relationship to diameter or thickness. There are two main numbering systems in use: the denier system, which is used for all filament yarns, and the yarn-count system, which is used for all spun yarns. YARNS AND SEWING THREADS A 81 F filling yarn A third system known as the tex system was developed to bring all yarn numbering systems into a single system for all types of yarns. The Denier System The denier system is the simpler of the two numbering systems. In this system, heavier and usually thicker filament yarns are designated by higher denier numbers. Very fine yarns, of 10 denier, for example, are used in sheer hosiery. The heavy, coarse yarns used in carpeting are around 2,000 denier. The denier system is called a direct system because higher denier numbers designate heavier (thicker) yarn. A 100-denier nylon filament has twice the weight of an equal length of 50-denier nylon filament. Thus the system is based on weight in grams per 9,000 meters. A 1-denier yarn is a yarn in which 9,000 meters, if weighed, would equal 1 gram. A 2-denier yarn would weigh 2 grams per 9,000 meters, and so forth. Thus the yarn has twice the thickness per unit length. Filament yarns are sold by indicating the number of filaments the yarn contains, and the twist as well as the denier size. For example, a 300-10- 1 ⁄2 Z filament yarn indicates a yarn of 300 denier in size, containing 10 filaments with 1 ⁄2 TPI of Z twist. Each filament fiber in this yarn would be 30 denier. A 400-40- 1 ⁄2 Z would be thicker than the 300-10- 1 ⁄2 Z, but have finer filaments because each filament fiber would be a 10-denier fiber and thus finer. The Yarn Count System In the yarn count system, the yarn count number is inversely proportional to weight. This system, therefore, is indirect. A 50-count spun yarn has twice the weight (thickness) of a 100-count spun yarn. The
Page 2 and 3: j.j. pizzuto’s FABRIC SCIENCE ten
Page 4 and 5: Executive Editor: Olga T. Kontzias
Page 6 and 7: Preface xv Acknowledgments xvii 1 T
Page 8 and 9: Secondary Manufactured Fibers for C
Page 10 and 11: 7 Other Types of Textiles 147 Objec
Page 12 and 13: Nonhazardous 224 Recycling 224 Work
Page 14 and 15: Fabric Performance Testing 316 Text
Page 17 and 18: air-jet bare elastic yarn blended y
Page 19 and 20: Identifying Spun and Filament Yarns
Page 21 and 22: Uses of Spun and Filament Yarns Som
Page 23 and 24: Fabrics made from worsted yarn are
Page 25 and 26: this system, one end of a fiber is
Page 27 and 28: textured yarn a b heater c d high p
Page 29: Table 4.1 Comparison oF sTreTCh Yar
Page 33 and 34: Table 4.2 Yarn number Conversions W
Page 35 and 36: Table 4.4 Thread Finishes and Their
Page 37: FABRIC SCIENCE / Swatch Kit Assignm
Page 40 and 41: Over 4,000 years ago, man created f
Page 42 and 43: yarn package yarn package yarn pack
Page 44 and 45: Figure 5.5 Various types of selvage
Page 46 and 47: the same appearance as when the fab
Page 48 and 49: More fabrics are made with plain we
Page 50 and 51: Most twills are either warp face or
Page 52 and 53: Figure 5.15 (a) Five-shaft warp-fac
Page 54 and 55: Figure 5.18 Filling-pile weave fabr
Page 56 and 57: Sometimes the pile loops are cut in
Page 58 and 59: light-pattern changes to create a r
Page 60 and 61: A product that can be considered as
Page 62 and 63: Glossary of Classic Woven Fabrics A
Page 64 and 65: Frieze: Heavy, thick, rough-surface
Page 66 and 67: Taffeta: Medium-weight, plain-weave

Woven Fabrics - Fairchild Books

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