Woven Fabrics - Fairchild Books

knife
Figure 5.20
Double cloth pile weaving. Knife cuts pile warp yarns to
make two velvet fabrics: V pile formation (top) and W pile
formation (bottom) with (a) ground warp (top); (b) ground
filling (top); (c) pile warp; (d) ground warp (light blue)
(bottom); and (e) ground filling (bottom).
more yarns per inch would have to be used. A denser
pile can better resist crushing, gives better cover, and
stands more erect, but also is more costly.
At times combinations of V-shape and W-shape
pile are used in the same fabric. The V-shape adds depth
to the pile and the W-shape adds stability. This alternative
is often utilized in the construction of wide wale
corduroy.
Different ground weaves are used for cut-pile fabrics.
Usually the body of corduroy and velveteen fabrics
are made with either a plain, rib, or twill weave. The
base construction will add to the durability of the fabric.
A rib or twill weave will lock in the pile more securely.
A twill weave can result in a stronger fabric (more yarns
per inch are possible; see p. 100), thus the twill-back pile
fabrics are usually more durable than those with a plain
weave ground.
Uncut-Pile Fabrics
Terry cloth is an example of a fabric with an uncut-pile
weave (Figure 5.21). The fabric consists of ground warp
and filling yarns plus an extra set of warp yarns for the
pile, in the form of loops on the surface of the cloth.
The loops are formed by having the extra warp yarns
(pile yarns) raised by a wire inserted across the loom.
The wire is then removed until the next set of loops is
to be formed.
The warp direction of terry is readily determined
because the extra yarn that forms the pile is lengthwise.
The weave varies so that there may be one pile
a
b
c
d
e
WOVEN FABRICS
A 105 F
Figure 5.21
Terry cloth is an example of a pile fabric, often used for towels.
end for one ground end, two pile ends for two ground
ends, or some other simple arrangement.
Two warp beams are used for weaving terry. On one
beam, the warp yarn is tight, and on the other, the yarn
is quite loose. The extra length in the loose warp yarn
forms the loops in the fabric. A pile warp yarn may be
almost four times longer than a ground warp yarn from
the same cloth.
Frieze fabric, a thick pile fabric with patterns made
from its loop surface, used for upholstery, is an example
of an uncut-pile weave fabric.
As in cut-pile weave fabrics, a strong ground fabric
with a large number of yarns per inch and a dense
pile makes a durable uncut-pile material. High loops
and thick, low-twist pile yarns make a more absorbent,
but less durable, fabric. Towels rented at the beach
frequently are scratchy and have poor absorption, but
are usually very durable because of the high-twist pile
yarns.