Woven Fabrics - Fairchild Books

Clip-Spot Pattern
Woven designs can also be obtained by using extra warp
yarns or filling yarns. In a clip-spot pattern, the extra
yarns interlace in the fabric to make a simple design and
then float until the yarns again interlace to repeat the
pattern. The long floats between the patterns are often
cut away and discarded. The ends of the cut yarns are
easily seen on the back of the fabric.
Dotted Swiss fabric has extra filling yarn, and clipspot
shirting fabric contains extra warp yarn to make
the design.
The durability of the design (i.e., how well the extra
yarns remain in the fabric) depends on the number of
interlacings in the design and the closeness of the yarns
in the fabric. The additional yarns do not substantially
affect the strength of the fabric.
Color-and-Weave Effect
A color-and-weave effect is a pattern produced in a fabric
by using a certain weave and a certain arrangement
of differently colored yarns in both the warp and the
filling. A houndstooth pattern is a common example
of a color-and-weave effect design (Figure 5.23). The
houndstooth pattern shown in the chapter opening
pages is made from a two-up, two-down, 45°, left-hand
twill. In this example, both warp and filling have black
and white yarns arranged four of one color, followed by
four of the second color.
Figure 5.23
Houndstooth plaid.
WOVEN FABRICS
A 107 F
Wherever a warp yarn and a filling yarn interlace,
a small spot of the color of the yarn passing over is seen
on the face of the cloth. The sum of the colors of all the
yarns interlacing on the face produces various stripes,
checks, and plaids.
Technology Advancements
From a design and production perspective, advances
in technology have enabled the industry to produce a
variety of woven fabrics more quickly and effectively
than ever before. They have allowed the woven-fabrics
industry the opportunity to offer value-added merchandise
with a shortened production cycle. This quick
turnaround has fueled new opportunities in the use of
woven fabrics in broad applications for both the apparel
and interior furnishings industries.
The initial design can be made in minutes with
the colored pattern shown on the computer screen.
Any modifications and/or alternatives can be produced
with the same ease. The images of the color monitors
are very realistic, as are the designs that are reproduced
by color printers. These computer-generated designs are
sent directly to buyers anywhere in the world and when
approved can be electronically transmitted to computeroperated
loom systems at the textile mill.
The application of various technologies allows the
textile designer to work directly with the consumer
(e.g., dress designer). Any changes in color or pattern
can quickly be accomplished. The print hard copy that
is finally approved usually has a remarkable similarity
to the fabric to be made. The designer can choose the
type of yarn (e.g., tightness of twist and thickness) as
well as the surface (e.g., smooth or brushed, slightly
blurred look).
Equipment is now available that can scan a woven
fabric and analyze the warp and filling yarns, colors,
the cloth count, and the particular weave. This can be
done to actual fabric samples that are as complex as
multifaceted dobby patterns found in upholstery and
men’s suiting.
The fabrics can be shown as a three-dimensional
object. Thus the effects of changing in yarns, fabric
construction (ypi), and finish can be viewed. Also both
sides of the material can be seen.
The garment designer can also use a computer
system to draw the garment on the screen. When the
garment is completed and approved, any pattern of fabric
stored in the computer can be displayed on the garment.
The garment can also be displayed on a model,
with the computer simulating draping, shadowing, and