Woven Fabrics - Fairchild Books

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Types of Threads Threads may be spun, filament, or core-spun type. Each has distinctive properties and therefore certain advantages in specific seams. A comparison of these thread types is shown in Table 4.3. All sewing threads, whether spun, filament, or core spun, are ply yarns. Sewing threads are more highly twisted and firmer than regular yarns and are often treated with special finishes or lubricants to improve sewability. Thread Finishes Threads are produced with various finishes, such as mercerized, soft, glacé, and bonded. In addition, special finishes, which include flame-resistant and heat-resistant types (for high-speed sewing), are also produced. Table 4.4 indicates the properties and use characteristics of thread finishes. Thread Sizes Sizes (weight per unit length) of thread are marketed and expressed with their Tex number designation (see p. 82). An older system of specifying thread size, the ticket number system, based on denier and yarn-count systems, is still in use but is gradually being replaced in the thread industry. Table 4.5 indicates typical Tex numbers in thread applications for various sewn products. Important Factors in Thread Selection Selecting the correct thread for assembly of finished goods is of critical importance. The type of thread used Table 4.3 Comparison oF sewing Thread TYpes FABRIC SCIENCE A 84 F will determine the ease of manufacture, durability of the product, and satisfaction of the consumer. Thread size should be as fine as possible, consistent with the strength requirements of the seam. Finer threads tend to become buried below the surface of the fabric and are, therefore, subjected to less abrasion than seams with heavier thread, which are on top of the fabric. Finer threads also require smaller needles, producing less fabric distortion than heavier needles. The breaking strength of a seam (see p. 321) should be less than that of the fabric sewn. Many authorities agree that the seam should be about 60 percent of the fabric strength. This is to ensure that if excessive stress is placed on a seam, the seam, rather than the fabric, breaks. Seams are easily repairable; fabric is not. If a garment is to be washed in hot water, then its thread should have excellent resistance to color change from this medium. Also, the thread should not shrink as a result of the cleaning method. Important Thread Factors That Govern Seam Appearance When woven-filament yarn fabrics and/or fabrics that have been finished with resins are sewn, there is sometimes a tendency for seams to pucker and ripple rather than to lie flat and smooth. The tendency is greater in lightweight fabrics than in heavyweight materials. Some of the causes of puckering are excessive tension on sewing thread during the sewing process, displacement or movement of fabric yarn in the sewing operation, and thread shrinkage that is greater than fabric shrinkage. Spun Filament Core Spun Lower strength than filament. Higher strength than spun; permits use of finer thread without sacrifice of seam strength. Versatile and adaptable to a wide variety of machine adjustment conditions. Less likely than filament thread to cause seam pucker. Produces neatest seams, but careful machine adjustments necessary. Greater possibility of seam pucker than with spun thread. Least costly. Less costly than core spun, but more costly than spun thread; textured filament threads would be good for knits because they have additional stretchability. Combines the best features of filament and spun threads. Especially useful in seaming durable-press garments.* Same seam puckering tendency as spun thread. Most costly. * Residual resins present in permanent press garments are absorbed by the thread, causing strength loss and abrasion-resistance loss in the cotton cover of the thread. The polyester core is unaffected by the resin, thus providing continuing seam integrity.
Table 4.4 Thread Finishes and Their uses Type Description Sewing Properties and Uses Soft Natural cotton thread without finishes that appears somewhat fuzzy. Small amount of lubricant sometimes added to improve sewability. Mercerized Treated cotton thread that is stronger, more lustrous, more stable (less stretch) than soft cotton thread. The finish reduces the thread loop strength. Glacé Highly polished cotton thread that is difficult to unravel. The polish and finish are usually obtained with waxes and starches. Bonded The term applies only to threads of manufactured fibers, both filament and spun. Waxes and resins produce high polish, eliminate fuzz (on spuns), bond together filaments and plied yarn, and impart a smooth protective coating. Table 4.5 sewing appliCaTions bY Thread size Fine Tex (18 Through 30) Blouses Dresses Lingerie Sleepwear Swimwear Other light articles Medium Tex (30 Through 60) Aprons Athletic wear Caps Coats Draperies Foundation garments Jeans Pants Rainwear Shorts Windbreakers Puckering of seams can frequently be reduced or eliminated through awareness of the following factors: u Thread size. Heavyweight thread should be used for heavyweight fabrics, lightweight thread for lightweight fabrics and extra fine thread for sheer fabrics or fabrics made of microdenier yarns. u Direction of seam. Seams made parallel to the warp pucker most seriously, those on the filling pucker considerably less, and seams on the bias hardly pucker at all. Sometimes turning a pattern slightly off-grain results in a pucker-free seam. u Thread tension. <strong>Fabrics</strong> susceptible to puckering should be sewn with the lightest thread tension possible. YARNS AND SEWING THREADS A 85 F Excellent sewability, lowest cost. Increased tensile strength, lustrous appearance, and brighter shades provide for better seams than soft threads. More costly than soft thread and used in premium products. Strongest cotton thread. Rarely used in apparel. Used in the manufacture of shoes, luggage, canvas goods, and similar applications. Increased strength and sewability compared to same thread unbonded. Apparel usage largely in heavyweight and coated-fabric sewing. Mainly used for manufacture of shoes, luggage, tents, and other heavy-duty applications. Heavy Tex (60 Through 105) Footwear Overcoats Parkas Protective clothing Work wear Extra Heavy Tex (105 Through 135) Decorative stitching or when a bold design look is desired Luggage Golf bags u Stitches per inch. Seams with a large number of stitches per inch are more likely to pucker because more yarn displacement is occurring. Stitches per inch, therefore, should be kept at a minimum. If possible, they should be kept within a range of 8–12 stitches per inch. u Sewing machine adjustments. The bottom fabric and top fabric of a sewn seam should feed into the machine at the same rate if smooth seams are expected. In some instances, use of a fine-tooth sewing machine feed dog aids in uniform feeding. Sewing machine operator skills also play a major role in uniform feeding of seam components.
Page 2 and 3: j.j. pizzuto’s FABRIC SCIENCE ten
Page 4 and 5: Executive Editor: Olga T. Kontzias
Page 6 and 7: Preface xv Acknowledgments xvii 1 T
Page 8 and 9: Secondary Manufactured Fibers for C
Page 10 and 11: 7 Other Types of Textiles 147 Objec
Page 12 and 13: Nonhazardous 224 Recycling 224 Work
Page 14 and 15: Fabric Performance Testing 316 Text
Page 17 and 18: air-jet bare elastic yarn blended y
Page 19 and 20: Identifying Spun and Filament Yarns
Page 21 and 22: Uses of Spun and Filament Yarns Som
Page 23 and 24: Fabrics made from worsted yarn are
Page 25 and 26: this system, one end of a fiber is
Page 27 and 28: textured yarn a b heater c d high p
Page 29 and 30: Table 4.1 Comparison oF sTreTCh Yar
Page 31 and 32: warp yarn Figure 4.14 Making chenil
Page 33: Table 4.2 Yarn number Conversions W
Page 37: FABRIC SCIENCE / Swatch Kit Assignm
Page 40 and 41: Over 4,000 years ago, man created f
Page 42 and 43: yarn package yarn package yarn pack
Page 44 and 45: Figure 5.5 Various types of selvage
Page 46 and 47: the same appearance as when the fab
Page 48 and 49: More fabrics are made with plain we
Page 50 and 51: Most twills are either warp face or
Page 52 and 53: Figure 5.15 (a) Five-shaft warp-fac
Page 54 and 55: Figure 5.18 Filling-pile weave fabr
Page 56 and 57: Sometimes the pile loops are cut in
Page 58 and 59: light-pattern changes to create a r
Page 60 and 61: A product that can be considered as
Page 62 and 63: Glossary of Classic Woven Fabrics A
Page 64 and 65: Frieze: Heavy, thick, rough-surface
Page 66 and 67: Taffeta: Medium-weight, plain-weave

Woven Fabrics - Fairchild Books

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