Woven Fabrics - Fairchild Books

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A product that can be considered as one of the most successful ever produced is the denim fabric. Denim jeans became popular among young and old alike, of both sexes, in all economic and social classes, with both radical and conservative dressers, and in virtually all parts of the world. Never before has the entire world adopted a clothing fashion so unanimously. Origin The origin of denim was in Nîmes, France, where a fabric “serge de Nîmes” was developed. It was a coarse, twilled fabric made of cotton, which was very strong and durable. The sails of the Niña, Pinta, and Santa María were made from this fabric. A version for trousers was later developed, called “denim” (“de Nîmes” or “from Nîmes”). Sailors from Dung, India, wore trousers made of this fabric and hence the name “dungarees.” A century later, the trousers became known as “jeans,” the name derived from the trousers worn by sailors from Genoa. The first exclusively American denim jeans were made by a Bavarian immigrant, Levi Strauss, on the West Coast in about 1850. They were created as durable pants that could stand up to the rigors of gold mining and other outdoor activities. The only color available was blue, hence the term “blue jeans.” The denim fabric, as well as its precursors (e.g., canvas), were very stiff. They had to be washed thoroughly before they became comfortable to wear. There was some color bleeding from most of the garments, thus they had to be washed separately to prevent undesirable coloring of other garments in the wash load. Such conditions were tolerable for work clothes since this was expected from past experiences. Cowboys adopted jeans as their own. Attempting to eliminate wrinkles in their jeans, which could rub and create sores after a day of riding, they would sit in a water-filled horse trough and then ride all day in the wet jeans. The result was a pair of jeans sun baked in the form of the man’s body. Textile Connection FABRIC SCIENCE A 110 F (In the 1960s and later, many owners would use a bathtub to obtain a snug, body-conforming fit.) Evolution of Blue Jeans Jeans moved into the 20th century, carrying their blue-collar image until the 1950s. Then a new segment of consumer was recognized—the teenager, who made jeans the uniform of American youth. Blue jeans became an anti-establishment symbol of the 1960s and the anti-war movement. Sales of blue jeans grew rapidly during this decade. In the 1970s, the impact of the counter-culture declined. Jeans became an expression of a more leisurely life. Jeans were being purchased not for sociological reasons, but for their inherent virtues— durability, comfort, value, and the non-necessity of ironing them. Jeans also embodied the new sexuality emerging in U.S. culture. The wearing of this garment spread to other countries, helped by new technologies that encouraged rapid global communications, a global transportation system, and global business services and rules of trade. Design Influence In the late 1970s, designers became involved in making denim jeans a fashion item. Jeans were made for women for the first time—with different proportions than those for men. Fashion designers branded their tailored jeans by “signing the back pockets of their own jeans.” The high price of these signature jeans proved of secondary importance to the strong fashion trend. The evolution of denim and blue jeans continued with the introduction of pre-washed (to soften the fabric) and pre-shrunk (for better fit) jeans. Then the pre-worn look evolved—the more worn, the better, including holes in the knees and frayed leg bottoms. To increase the worn look, abrasives, such as stones, were put in the commercial washing machines used by jean manufacturers. (This process also further softened the fabric.) This was called stone washing.
A unique version of the denim jean occurred in 1990 when a manufacturer fired shotguns into the garments to create holes. This took the “ripped jean” concept one step further. Periodically, the blue jean silhouette was altered to follow the trend of the times—from a straight-leg cut, to bellbottoms, to a flared silhouette, and back again to a straight leg. Blue jeans have also developed into different styles for different ages and body proportions (e.g., skinny leg, relaxed fit, boot cut, etc.) as well as for various price categories. Table 5.2 <strong>Woven</strong> FabriCs by Common CharaCTerisTiCs WOVEN FABRICS A 111 F Changing the Fabric Denim began to find a multitude of other end uses—denim jackets, shorts, furniture coverings, and dog beds. This diversity helped spur innovations, such as lighter weight fabrics (e.g., 10 oz.), various colors (not only blue), prints, finishes, and weaves other than the traditional twill weave (e.g., dobby). Other changes included the use of polyester/cotton blends and novelty yarns (e.g., slub) as well as the development of stretch denim. Sheer Light Heavy Ribbed Buckram Cheesecloth Chiffon Crinoline Dotted Swiss Gauze Marquisette Ninon Scrim Tulle Batiste Calico Chambric Chambray Gingham Lawn Madras Nainsook Organdy Organza Oxford (rib weave) Percale Toile de Jouy Voile Burlap Canvas Crash Cretonne Duck Muslin a Osnaberg Sailcloth Ticking b Bengaline Broadcloth Faille Grosgrain Ottoman Poplin Repp Taffeta Twill <strong>Woven</strong> Design Brushed Cord Novelty Yarn Cavalry twill Cheviot Chino Denim Drill Gabardine Jean Serge Tweed Whipcord Brocade Brocatelle Damask Frieze Huck Matelassé Piqué Tapestry Challis Flannel Flannelette Melton Bedford cord Dimity Antique satin Antique taffeta Butcher fabric Honan Pongee Shantung Pile Puckered Lustrous Miscellaneous Corduroy Terry cloth Velvet Velveteen a Also is made in lighter weight. b Sometimes with woven design. Crepe (types) Plissé Seersucker Charmeuse Chintz Foulard Habutai Peau de soie Sateen Satin Surah Monk’s cloth Sharkskin
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j.j. pizzuto’s FABRIC SCIENCE ten
Page 4 and 5:
Executive Editor: Olga T. Kontzias
Page 6 and 7:
Preface xv Acknowledgments xvii 1 T
Page 8 and 9:
Secondary Manufactured Fibers for C
Page 10 and 11: 7 Other Types of Textiles 147 Objec
Page 12 and 13: Nonhazardous 224 Recycling 224 Work
Page 14 and 15: Fabric Performance Testing 316 Text
Page 17 and 18: air-jet bare elastic yarn blended y
Page 19 and 20: Identifying Spun and Filament Yarns
Page 21 and 22: Uses of Spun and Filament Yarns Som
Page 23 and 24: Fabrics made from worsted yarn are
Page 25 and 26: this system, one end of a fiber is
Page 27 and 28: textured yarn a b heater c d high p
Page 29 and 30: Table 4.1 Comparison oF sTreTCh Yar
Page 31 and 32: warp yarn Figure 4.14 Making chenil
Page 33 and 34: Table 4.2 Yarn number Conversions W
Page 35 and 36: Table 4.4 Thread Finishes and Their
Page 37: FABRIC SCIENCE / Swatch Kit Assignm
Page 40 and 41: Over 4,000 years ago, man created f
Page 42 and 43: yarn package yarn package yarn pack
Page 44 and 45: Figure 5.5 Various types of selvage
Page 46 and 47: the same appearance as when the fab
Page 48 and 49: More fabrics are made with plain we
Page 50 and 51: Most twills are either warp face or
Page 52 and 53: Figure 5.15 (a) Five-shaft warp-fac
Page 54 and 55: Figure 5.18 Filling-pile weave fabr
Page 56 and 57: Sometimes the pile loops are cut in
Page 58 and 59: light-pattern changes to create a r
Page 62 and 63: Glossary of Classic Woven Fabrics A
Page 64 and 65: Frieze: Heavy, thick, rough-surface
Page 66 and 67: Taffeta: Medium-weight, plain-weave
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Woven Fabrics - Fairchild Books

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