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warp beam<br />
warp yarn<br />
u When a harness or group of harnesses is raised with<br />
others left in the down position, a V-like opening is<br />
formed. This is called the shed.<br />
u A filling yarn is inserted in the shed and travels<br />
across the width of the loom, passing over some<br />
warp yarns and under other warp yarns. (See Figure<br />
5.3.)<br />
u The reed is a comb-like device that pushes the filling<br />
yarn in the shed into the body of the cloth.<br />
u The sequence in which harnesses are raised or lowered<br />
determines the weave of the fabric.<br />
u The woven fabric produced by the repetition of<br />
the above steps is slowly wound onto the cloth roll<br />
located in the front of the loom.<br />
Types of Looms<br />
harnesses<br />
heddles<br />
Production looms can be categorized several ways, such<br />
as by method of raising ends to form the shed (e.g.,<br />
dobby device, or jacquard attachment—see p. 106), by<br />
number of sheds (one to make a single fabric or two to<br />
make a double fabric), or by method of inserting the filling<br />
yarn. The most significant advances in weaving are<br />
in the methods of inserting the filling yarn (Figure 5.4).<br />
WOVEN FABRICS<br />
A 91 F<br />
shuttle<br />
reed<br />
cloth roll<br />
cloth<br />
Figure 5.3<br />
The interlacing of warp yarns and filling yarns.<br />
Figure 5.2<br />
A simplified sketch of a<br />
two-harness loom.<br />
Production Looms<br />
For early looms, the insertion of the filling yarn was<br />
done by hand, with the weaver passing the filling yarn<br />
over and under different warp yarns. Later, harnesses<br />
were added to looms which allowed groups of yarns to<br />
be lifted. Also with the use of a shuttle the weaver could
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