Woven Fabrics - Fairchild Books

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Figure 5.18 Filling-pile weave fabric: ground filling (purple and dark blue), ground warp (brown), and pile filling (light blue). woven beyond the rod, the rod is removed and the knife at the end of the rod cuts all warp yarns that pass over the rod. The cut yarns stand up to form the pile. The weaving continues with the insertion of the rod after weaving a few additional filling yarns and the removal of the rod after weaving a few more filling yarns. With filling cut-pile fabrics, there is no raising of yarns by wires. The pile-filling yarns are woven to float over a group of warp yarns. The pile yarns are then cut at the center of the float. The ends of the cut yarns produce the cut-pile effect. The floats in corduroy fabric are placed in lengthwise rows, and the floats in velveteen are randomly spaced. Thus, when corduroy fabric is cut, the characteristic wale or hill-and-valley effect is produced. The thickness of the wales can be varied, from narrow (used for apparel) to very wide (used for furniture fabric). When velveteen fabric is cut, an overall cutpile surface is produced. Decorative patterns and effects can be created by cutting floats selectively. Cut-pile weave fabrics are made with different heights of pile. For example, velvet has a low pile height, velour has a higher pile, and plush has still higher pile. The face of cut-pile fabrics has an up-and-down direction (top and bottom) because of the position of the pile. A garment made with the pile fabric facing downward offers a smoother surface for light and so appears more lustrous. If the pile is up, the color is richer because more of the interior of the fabric (and color) is visible. However, the fabric is less durable because the pile fibers are more exposed to rubbing forces. In cutting fabric for a garment, the pile of all pieces in the garment must lie in the same direction to produce FABRIC SCIENCE A 104 F Figure 5.19 These velvet jackets are of a warp-pile weave fabric. a uniform effect. Velvet, a cut-pile warp fabric is especially sensitive to crushing and must be stored so that the pile is not flattened. 1 Also, special care must be exercised in cleaning and refinishing velvet apparel. Pile construction affects the fabric wearability. The short lengths of cut-pile yarn may have a V shape or a W shape. The W-shape pile is more firmly held in place because it interlaces with three yarns, and the V-shape interlaces with only one yarn. Thus, the W-shape pile yarn is held more securely, preventing a bald spot from developing. The W-shape pile, however, is not as dense as the V-shape pile because the latter has two pile ends for each interlacing, and the W-shape pile has two pile ends for every three interlacings. (See Figure 5.20.) To obtain the same pile density for a W-shape pile as for a V-shape pile, 1. Yard goods of velvet are shipped and stored on special bolts that keep the layers separate to avoid crushing.
knife Figure 5.20 Double cloth pile weaving. Knife cuts pile warp yarns to make two velvet fabrics: V pile formation (top) and W pile formation (bottom) with (a) ground warp (top); (b) ground filling (top); (c) pile warp; (d) ground warp (light blue) (bottom); and (e) ground filling (bottom). more yarns per inch would have to be used. A denser pile can better resist crushing, gives better cover, and stands more erect, but also is more costly. At times combinations of V-shape and W-shape pile are used in the same fabric. The V-shape adds depth to the pile and the W-shape adds stability. This alternative is often utilized in the construction of wide wale corduroy. Different ground weaves are used for cut-pile fabrics. Usually the body of corduroy and velveteen fabrics are made with either a plain, rib, or twill weave. The base construction will add to the durability of the fabric. A rib or twill weave will lock in the pile more securely. A twill weave can result in a stronger fabric (more yarns per inch are possible; see p. 100), thus the twill-back pile fabrics are usually more durable than those with a plain weave ground. Uncut-Pile <strong>Fabrics</strong> Terry cloth is an example of a fabric with an uncut-pile weave (Figure 5.21). The fabric consists of ground warp and filling yarns plus an extra set of warp yarns for the pile, in the form of loops on the surface of the cloth. The loops are formed by having the extra warp yarns (pile yarns) raised by a wire inserted across the loom. The wire is then removed until the next set of loops is to be formed. The warp direction of terry is readily determined because the extra yarn that forms the pile is lengthwise. The weave varies so that there may be one pile a b c d e WOVEN FABRICS A 105 F Figure 5.21 Terry cloth is an example of a pile fabric, often used for towels. end for one ground end, two pile ends for two ground ends, or some other simple arrangement. Two warp beams are used for weaving terry. On one beam, the warp yarn is tight, and on the other, the yarn is quite loose. The extra length in the loose warp yarn forms the loops in the fabric. A pile warp yarn may be almost four times longer than a ground warp yarn from the same cloth. Frieze fabric, a thick pile fabric with patterns made from its loop surface, used for upholstery, is an example of an uncut-pile weave fabric. As in cut-pile weave fabrics, a strong ground fabric with a large number of yarns per inch and a dense pile makes a durable uncut-pile material. High loops and thick, low-twist pile yarns make a more absorbent, but less durable, fabric. Towels rented at the beach frequently are scratchy and have poor absorption, but are usually very durable because of the high-twist pile yarns.
Page 2 and 3:
j.j. pizzuto’s FABRIC SCIENCE ten
Page 4 and 5: Executive Editor: Olga T. Kontzias
Page 6 and 7: Preface xv Acknowledgments xvii 1 T
Page 8 and 9: Secondary Manufactured Fibers for C
Page 10 and 11: 7 Other Types of Textiles 147 Objec
Page 12 and 13: Nonhazardous 224 Recycling 224 Work
Page 14 and 15: Fabric Performance Testing 316 Text
Page 17 and 18: air-jet bare elastic yarn blended y
Page 19 and 20: Identifying Spun and Filament Yarns
Page 21 and 22: Uses of Spun and Filament Yarns Som
Page 23 and 24: Fabrics made from worsted yarn are
Page 25 and 26: this system, one end of a fiber is
Page 27 and 28: textured yarn a b heater c d high p
Page 29 and 30: Table 4.1 Comparison oF sTreTCh Yar
Page 31 and 32: warp yarn Figure 4.14 Making chenil
Page 33 and 34: Table 4.2 Yarn number Conversions W
Page 35 and 36: Table 4.4 Thread Finishes and Their
Page 37: FABRIC SCIENCE / Swatch Kit Assignm
Page 40 and 41: Over 4,000 years ago, man created f
Page 42 and 43: yarn package yarn package yarn pack
Page 44 and 45: Figure 5.5 Various types of selvage
Page 46 and 47: the same appearance as when the fab
Page 48 and 49: More fabrics are made with plain we
Page 50 and 51: Most twills are either warp face or
Page 52 and 53: Figure 5.15 (a) Five-shaft warp-fac
Page 56 and 57: Sometimes the pile loops are cut in
Page 58 and 59: light-pattern changes to create a r
Page 60 and 61: A product that can be considered as
Page 62 and 63: Glossary of Classic Woven Fabrics A
Page 64 and 65: Frieze: Heavy, thick, rough-surface
Page 66 and 67: Taffeta: Medium-weight, plain-weave
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Woven Fabrics - Fairchild Books

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