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Woven Fabrics - Fairchild Books

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5 <strong>Woven</strong> <strong>Fabrics</strong> 89<br />

Objectives 89<br />

Key Terms Related to Textiles 89<br />

The Loom 90<br />

Types of Looms 91<br />

Loom Production 93<br />

Fabric Features 93<br />

The Selvage 93<br />

Identifying Warp Yarns and Filling Yarns 94<br />

Face and Back 95<br />

Top and Bottom 95<br />

Yarns Per Inch: A Measure of Fabric<br />

Quality 96<br />

Determining the Weave of a Fabric 96<br />

Weave Floats 97<br />

Basic Fabric Weaves 97<br />

Plain Weave 97<br />

Table 5.1: Comparison of Basic Weave<br />

Properties 97<br />

Twill Weave 99<br />

Satin Weave 101<br />

Which Weave Makes the Strongest<br />

Fabric? 102<br />

Special Fabric Weaves 103<br />

Leno Weave 103<br />

Pile Weaves 103<br />

Double Cloth and Variations 106<br />

<strong>Woven</strong> Designs 106<br />

Dobby Pattern 106<br />

Jacquard Pattern 106<br />

Clip-Spot Pattern 107<br />

Color-and-Weave Effect 107<br />

Technology Advancements 107<br />

Factors Affecting the Cost of <strong>Woven</strong><br />

<strong>Fabrics</strong> 108<br />

New Developments 108<br />

Classic <strong>Woven</strong> <strong>Fabrics</strong> 108<br />

Textile Connection 110<br />

Changing the Fabric 111<br />

Table 5.2: <strong>Woven</strong> <strong>Fabrics</strong> by Common<br />

Characteristics 111<br />

Glossary of Classic <strong>Woven</strong> <strong>Fabrics</strong> 112<br />

E X T E N D E D C O N T E N T S<br />

A x F<br />

Study Questions 117<br />

<strong>Woven</strong> <strong>Fabrics</strong>: Fabric Science Swatch Kit<br />

Assignment 117<br />

6 Knitted <strong>Fabrics</strong> 119<br />

Objectives 119<br />

Key Terms Related to Textiles 119<br />

The Knitting Industry 120<br />

Textile Connection: Knitwear 121<br />

General Knitting Fabric Terms 121<br />

Wales 121<br />

Courses 121<br />

Face and Back 122<br />

Machine Nomenclature 122<br />

Circular and Flat Machines 122<br />

Knitting Needles 123<br />

Cut and Gauge 124<br />

Types of Knitting Stitches 126<br />

Knit Stitch 126<br />

Purl Stitch 126<br />

Miss Stitch 126<br />

Tuck Stitch 126<br />

Knit Fabric Classifications 127<br />

Knit Fabric Names 128<br />

Weft Knitting 128<br />

Table 6.1: Comparison of Jersey, Rib,<br />

and Purl <strong>Fabrics</strong> 129<br />

Seamless Knitting 135<br />

Warp Knitting 135<br />

Table 6.2: Comparison of Weft Knits<br />

and Warp Knits 135<br />

Laid-in Yarn <strong>Fabrics</strong> 139<br />

Narrow Knitted <strong>Fabrics</strong> 139<br />

Important Differences Between Knitted<br />

and <strong>Woven</strong> <strong>Fabrics</strong> 140<br />

The Effect of Fabric Construction<br />

(Wales and Courses per Inch)<br />

on Knitted Fabric Properties 141<br />

Glossary of Defects in Knit <strong>Fabrics</strong> 141<br />

Glossary of Classic Knit <strong>Fabrics</strong> 141<br />

Study Questions 144<br />

Knitted <strong>Fabrics</strong>: Fabric Science Swatch Kit<br />

Assignment 145

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