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5 <strong>Woven</strong> <strong>Fabrics</strong> 89<br />
Objectives 89<br />
Key Terms Related to Textiles 89<br />
The Loom 90<br />
Types of Looms 91<br />
Loom Production 93<br />
Fabric Features 93<br />
The Selvage 93<br />
Identifying Warp Yarns and Filling Yarns 94<br />
Face and Back 95<br />
Top and Bottom 95<br />
Yarns Per Inch: A Measure of Fabric<br />
Quality 96<br />
Determining the Weave of a Fabric 96<br />
Weave Floats 97<br />
Basic Fabric Weaves 97<br />
Plain Weave 97<br />
Table 5.1: Comparison of Basic Weave<br />
Properties 97<br />
Twill Weave 99<br />
Satin Weave 101<br />
Which Weave Makes the Strongest<br />
Fabric? 102<br />
Special Fabric Weaves 103<br />
Leno Weave 103<br />
Pile Weaves 103<br />
Double Cloth and Variations 106<br />
<strong>Woven</strong> Designs 106<br />
Dobby Pattern 106<br />
Jacquard Pattern 106<br />
Clip-Spot Pattern 107<br />
Color-and-Weave Effect 107<br />
Technology Advancements 107<br />
Factors Affecting the Cost of <strong>Woven</strong><br />
<strong>Fabrics</strong> 108<br />
New Developments 108<br />
Classic <strong>Woven</strong> <strong>Fabrics</strong> 108<br />
Textile Connection 110<br />
Changing the Fabric 111<br />
Table 5.2: <strong>Woven</strong> <strong>Fabrics</strong> by Common<br />
Characteristics 111<br />
Glossary of Classic <strong>Woven</strong> <strong>Fabrics</strong> 112<br />
E X T E N D E D C O N T E N T S<br />
A x F<br />
Study Questions 117<br />
<strong>Woven</strong> <strong>Fabrics</strong>: Fabric Science Swatch Kit<br />
Assignment 117<br />
6 Knitted <strong>Fabrics</strong> 119<br />
Objectives 119<br />
Key Terms Related to Textiles 119<br />
The Knitting Industry 120<br />
Textile Connection: Knitwear 121<br />
General Knitting Fabric Terms 121<br />
Wales 121<br />
Courses 121<br />
Face and Back 122<br />
Machine Nomenclature 122<br />
Circular and Flat Machines 122<br />
Knitting Needles 123<br />
Cut and Gauge 124<br />
Types of Knitting Stitches 126<br />
Knit Stitch 126<br />
Purl Stitch 126<br />
Miss Stitch 126<br />
Tuck Stitch 126<br />
Knit Fabric Classifications 127<br />
Knit Fabric Names 128<br />
Weft Knitting 128<br />
Table 6.1: Comparison of Jersey, Rib,<br />
and Purl <strong>Fabrics</strong> 129<br />
Seamless Knitting 135<br />
Warp Knitting 135<br />
Table 6.2: Comparison of Weft Knits<br />
and Warp Knits 135<br />
Laid-in Yarn <strong>Fabrics</strong> 139<br />
Narrow Knitted <strong>Fabrics</strong> 139<br />
Important Differences Between Knitted<br />
and <strong>Woven</strong> <strong>Fabrics</strong> 140<br />
The Effect of Fabric Construction<br />
(Wales and Courses per Inch)<br />
on Knitted Fabric Properties 141<br />
Glossary of Defects in Knit <strong>Fabrics</strong> 141<br />
Glossary of Classic Knit <strong>Fabrics</strong> 141<br />
Study Questions 144<br />
Knitted <strong>Fabrics</strong>: Fabric Science Swatch Kit<br />
Assignment 145